This is a brief trip report on studying Spanish at the Escuela de Idiomas at the Universidad de Guanajuato in Mexico. I thought that the quality of instruction was very good, and that Guanajuato Mexico was a very interesting city.
Guanajuato is about five hours from Mexico City and from Guadalajara. It is a town of 80,000 people with 20,000 students at the University, 10% of whom study language. Since Spain got much of their wealth from the nearby gold and silver mines, the town itself had immense wealth and has many beautiful buildings. Guanajuato is a UN Heritage City, very cheap, quite cosmopolitan.

Since the city has lots of mining expertise, when it flooded 100 years ago, they converted the river below the city into a series of tunnels. Most of the traffic is underneath the city, which is very cool. Good thing they don't have earthquakes there. The city itself is built in many layers on the hills that surround the city.

The language school teaches mainly Spanish to foreigners and mainly English to Mexicans. But they also do Russian, Italian, German, Portugeuse, French, Greek and Latin. They offer semester courses to college kids, intensive monthly Spanish courses as well as a summer course. I took a month of Spanish. You show up at the school and pay $500 or so. For the monthly program, they give you a test and put you in one of three levels. Classes are limited to four people, I had one other girl in my advanced class.

Our class was 20 hours of grammar, 12 hours of Mexican history (taught in Spanish, natch), 12 hours of Latino literature and 20 scheduled hours of Spanish conversation. But there was a language centre called CAADI where you could chat and converse with a long list of volunteers for many additional hours each day (or do workshops in grammar, etc.). I took some advantage of this and got about 25 extra free hours of Spanish conversation. I should have taken the time to do more French conversation too, but only did this a couple of times. So for lessons with one other student, you're looking at $6 or so per hour of a very structured program with very experienced professors.
In literature, we read short stories by Borges, Garcia Marquez, Juan Rulfo, Rosario Castellanos, Isabel Allende, Julio Cortázar, Octavio Paz... a highbrow selection. The library had tons of movies and telenovelas you could rent out. But pirated movies, TV shows and telenovelas are available everywhere in town, 9 or more DVD movies for 5 bucks. The possibility exists that I now own the complete set of Los Simpsons, House, Almodovar movies, The Sopranos, Sin Tetas, Cafe Con Aroma de Mujer, Escalona, etc. Some Mexican movies are very good too, such as the Tin Tan and Cantinflas films or new movies like La Ley de Herodes. The Mexicans use the verb cantinflear to mean to talk a lot but say nothing, kind of like pura tilin tilin pero nada de paletas... You learn the Mexican slang.

Mexicans are friendly and the town has a youthful vibe. But it is quite Catholic and conservative, and probably less fun than Colombia. I met a lot of nice people. The town has a good gym, nice restaurants, good clubs and pubs and cafés. It has some excellent museums -- one very impressive one devoted only to Don Quixote.

Guanajuato is famous for its mummy museum, something in the soil preserves bodies buried there. They dig you up if your relatives don't pay to keep you buried. The mummy museum is freaky.

If you get tired of Guanajuato, and it has a lot to do, you can go to nearby Leon and buy cheap shoes or leather goods. Hush Puppies and Florsheim are made there, you could buy a pair of leather shoes from $10 (or some very cool cowboy boots for $50). Guanajuato has a few nice markets and I brought back a guitar and some gorgeous arts and crafts. Zacatecas has a disco in a mine, you take the little train to get there. A lot of cool day trips from Guanajuato, five hours from Mexico City or Guadalajara. There is a ten hour overnight bus right to Puerto Vallarta, where I spent four days, but busses in Mexico are cheap and comfortable with fully reclining seats on the first class ones.
The university will find you room and board for $17-20 a night. The family at my place had a great cook who would make whatever I wanted. (French toast for breakfast? Why sure!). I lost ten pounds climbing all the hills and eating healthy Mexican food.
But best of all, my Spanish improved a lot. I think Guanajuato would be an excellent choice for someone looking to improve a language -- no headaches, little bureaucracy, cheap, interesting place, quality instruction, very experienced staff and well organized courses.
By Man Tequila on Mar 8, 2008, 16:48 in Off Topic.
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Man Tequila says on Mar 8, 2008, 16:58: The town has some pretty traditions. Everyone gathers on the two downtown streets 7-9pm to hang out and talk. Several professional singers dress in medieval costumes and sing old favourites like Colores. The crowd is encouraged to sing along and follow the estudantinas through the narrow medieval callejones while drinking wine. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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manINred says on Mar 8, 2008, 18:03: That's really interesting. Are there many foreigners/tourists living in the city?
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Man Tequila says on Mar 8, 2008, 18:17: Guanajuato merits a dozen pages in the Lonely Planet guide, but usually only gets tourists on Friday and Saturday, though the local taxi industry is thriving and bus service is excellent (it would be crazy difficult to drive around town, and impossible to avoid dinging the paint). They hold a big international rally car race in the mountains around town, so there were a lot of tourists the last weekend in February. The town is also filled to the rafters for the Cervantino festival in October and Semana Santa. Bajio airport is 30 minutes away. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Man Tequila says on Mar 8, 2008, 18:22: The view from the language school. You can see the ramparts of the University (build by the Jesuits in the 1600s) and to the left of the dome, a statue of El Pípila who helped beat the criollos beat the Spanish at Alhóndiga. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Lucas Freley says on Mar 8, 2008, 18:24: Muy buen reporte Man Tequila. A proposito, vos si que la pasas bien !!! Me alegro que las cosas te esten yendo bien. Muy linda la foto que muestra la ciudad con las casitas pintadas de diferentes colores. Ademas parece ser el lugar indicado para estudiar la lengua de Cervantes, maxime teniendo en cuenta que hay Quijotes de la Mancha por todos lados...jaja. Hoy que estás esplendida y que todo lo iluminas, demos un paseo, vuelta por el Universo (Gustavo Cerati) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Man Tequila says on Mar 8, 2008, 18:49: Gracias. Es bonito que haya mejorado mi español, y Guanajuato fue un lugar agradable para hacerlo. También, estoy feliz que tuviera la oportunidad de estudiar buenos autores como Borges, Cortázar y Echeverría. Creo que Cortázar escribió un libro llamado La Vuelta Al Dia En Ochenta Mundos. Las pelís de Cantinflas son divertidas (más que el Chapulin Colorado). Espero que todo vaya bien, Lucas, siempre es un placer platicar contigo. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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de pronto says on Mar 8, 2008, 19:48: Tratando de enterarme de lo que se decía en PBH sobre la crisis política, me encontré con este post, muchas gracias Man Tequila por mostrar una pequeña parte de mi país. Guanajuato es en realidad una ciudad muy hermosa y aunque hace tiempo no la visito espero hacerlo pronto. Me alegra que tu español haya mejorado y sí las películas de Cantinflas son graciosas aunque seguramente habrás escuchado hablar de Tin Tan, él me hace reir más =) ... y viaje a Macondo todo pagado 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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miamimike says on Mar 8, 2008, 20:13: Thats a beautiful Area you mention and a great place to study Spanish. I took my first intensive course in Guadalajara in 1989 and enjoyed the area immensely. 70,000 Americans and Canadians do also as evidenced by their large numbers. And more keep moving there daily. IMO, Guadalajara has some of the best climate in Mexico, even worldwide. Its also know as la Ciudade de primivera eterna. The Below link will not become Hot, C&P it into your browser. "Wait a minute. What did you just say? You're predicting $4-a-gallon gas? That's interesting. I hadn't heard that." -- Feb. 28, 2008 --George W. Bush, Washington, D.C. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Man Tequila says on Mar 8, 2008, 20:27: Gracias, de pronto, pero estoy triste que nunca visitara la capital... demasiado trabajo y tiempo para viajar... Encontraremos otra vez. Tienes razon, Tin Tan es muy chistoso. Ahorita estoy en Canadá y la temperatura está diez bajo cero. Claro que echo de menos el bueno clima de México... Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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gringoloid says on Mar 8, 2008, 20:29: mant..........i first thought el pipila was Prometheus..............but nevertheless, as a result of the silver mines, guanajuato is rich in freemasonry. the most famous mason of that city, the artist Diego Rivera, made for some good reading tonight. Who are the three blind men? 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Man Tequila says on Mar 8, 2008, 20:37: Diego Rivera is an interesting guy, much hated by conservative Guanajuatense for many years. His house is a neat museum. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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miamimike says on Mar 8, 2008, 21:04: MT-I bought several Ceramic Handcrafts in Tlaquepaque, its quite a place. My Ex is from Guadalajara, met her when I went there to study Spanish. I lost my affection for Her but certainly not for Guadalajara. LOL Its a great place! And they(mexican goverment) make it easy to live and retire there. The process is fairly transparent. Imagine, with a Rentista Visa you can join their National Healthcare Insurance program for around $30/monthly. It doesn't get any better then that! On the Mariachis, The Plaza of Los Mariachis in el centro in Guadalajara is a great place to go around 6 pm every day. Many groups go there around that time to get hired for nightly Fiestas/Gigs so you may hear 10 Bands warming up at the same time. Quite a Sight. And quite a Sound to say the least. We hired a Mariachi Band to play in the Church at our wedding and later at the Reception. It was one of the Better memories of my Marriage! LOL Lastly, its a Misnomer for someone to say(as they do here sometimes) that the Mexicanas are Butt dog ugly. Sit in the downtown plaza at Noon or later in the tarde when the Secretaries are getting out of work, you will wonder how there can be so many Drop dead Gorgeous Women living in One Town! No BS! "Wait a minute. What did you just say? You're predicting $4-a-gallon gas? That's interesting. I hadn't heard that." -- Feb. 28, 2008 --George W. Bush, Washington, D.C. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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miamimike says on Mar 8, 2008, 21:04: G'loid, are you a Masonic Member? "Wait a minute. What did you just say? You're predicting $4-a-gallon gas? That's interesting. I hadn't heard that." -- Feb. 28, 2008 --George W. Bush, Washington, D.C. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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de pronto says on Mar 8, 2008, 21:37: Miamike your comment on "mexican beauty" made me remember that so many people think that Salma Hayek is a pretty mexican however there were prettier artists than Salma Hayek: Maria Felix and Dolores del Rio. They really were beautiful mexican women. =) ... y viaje a Macondo todo pagado 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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DodgerDogs says on Mar 8, 2008, 22:02: de pronto , Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter.Martin Luther King: 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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de pronto says on Mar 8, 2008, 22:10: ok Dodger I respect your opinion, at the end of the day is your own opinion and I have stated mine. But I should say that Dolores del Rio was at least a true actress =) ... y viaje a Macondo todo pagado 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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DodgerDogs says on Mar 8, 2008, 22:43: de pronto, Mexico has a lot of fine and pretty actresses. I am just biased for Salma . Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter.Martin Luther King: 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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CatGirl says on Mar 8, 2008, 23:12: MT - Excellent pictures! Thanks. Nice post Love and Time: the only two things that cannot be bought, but only spent 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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podborski says on Mar 9, 2008, 03:16: sounds like a great place man t. I really like the sound of the narrow, steep streets. Looks like a great place to explore, plus I could stand to lose a few pounds myself.
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Man Tequila says on Mar 9, 2008, 09:20: There are a lot of pretty mexicanas. I found they tended to converge at the gyms, doing yoga, pilates, zumba and cardio striptease. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Lucas Freley says on Mar 9, 2008, 09:41: Man Tequila, te felicito, ya que tu español es perfecto. Me alegra saber que te interesa la literatura "hispana", ya que como decis hay muy buenos escritores. Particularmente Echeverria y Borges, tienen cosas brillantes. Te devuelvo la gentileza, hablar con vos siempre es un placer. Hoy que estás esplendida y que todo lo iluminas, demos un paseo, vuelta por el Universo (Gustavo Cerati) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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de pronto says on Mar 9, 2008, 11:00: Man Tequila said "Mexicans sometimes have unkind things to say about Colombia. Sometimes it is easier to round up the usual suspects than deal with local corruption." I hate to say this but it is true =( however those are mexicans who only believe what it is said on the TV or on the radio. They believe "almost" what it is said about Colombia, I've been so blessed that I do have my own opinion. =) ... y viaje a Macondo todo pagado 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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gringoloid says on Mar 9, 2008, 11:35: mike..........no, i'm not a mason but mant knows what i'm all about after we travelled to buenos aires. freemasons or the illuminati infiltrated the masonic structure in the 1700's and took over the leadership. regular masons know little about this. Who are the three blind men? 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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msaucey says on Mar 9, 2008, 12:39: WOW... MT, I'm glad that you took the time to share your experience and even though you were kind enough to check in on occassion, you did primarily focus and improved your Spanish... Great post and pics.... The trouble about trying to make yourself stupider than you really are is that you very often succeed. - CS Lewis 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Man Tequila says on Mar 9, 2008, 13:04: Claro que me gustan los escritores argentinos. Aún mi favorito es García Marquez. Tiene un cuentito que se llama "El ahogado más hermoso del mundo" que es fantástico, ?quizá yo ponga el cuentito y un análisis/una traducción aquí? Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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podborski says on Mar 9, 2008, 14:20: oh no man t goes to mexico and comes back praising a commie? where's scotty when we need him?
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Man Tequila says on Mar 9, 2008, 14:23: You'll have to wait 'til Fox does a special. I did notice that in Mexico, many of the sauces were red coloured. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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podborski says on Mar 9, 2008, 14:26: how was the food BTW? I'm a big fan of mexican food. Spicy, chocolate, what more could you want?
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Man Tequila says on Mar 9, 2008, 14:45: Careful Pods, those moles might be commies. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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podborski says on Mar 9, 2008, 14:59: ahh that looks pretty good. I'd trade a good steak for some good tacos right about now.
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Man Tequila says on Mar 9, 2008, 15:05: I've been to Sucre. It's only pricy for BzAz. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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podborski says on Mar 9, 2008, 15:58: jaja listen before I go on about the hotel, I have to tell you about Mauro (the albanil who was with me from day 1, a year and a half).
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podborski says on Mar 9, 2008, 16:08: the hotel is just about ready...2 more weeks. Angel finishes Tuesday, and on Wednesday we start setting up tables and chairs.
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Man Tequila says on Mar 9, 2008, 16:09: Mauro was buena gente, I'm glad to hear it. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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podborski says on Mar 9, 2008, 16:13: jaja Mauro is a bit of a klutz...you would have laughed at me holding my head watching in horror as he cleaned out some big metal poles from the planter in the back patio.
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houstongal says on Mar 9, 2008, 21:19: Wow MT....great write up! I just got back from a weekend in Veracruz. We took the bus for the 3.5 hour trip and you're right...the first class bus is awesome and cheap ($50 round trip) with movies and a beverage. We got some sun today, which is what we wanted. And shopped yesterday since it was rainy. Just what two girls needed. "It is now official: there's no place on earth where you will not find a Peruvian band." David Sedaris 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Man Tequila says on Mar 9, 2008, 21:31: One thing I like about Mexican licuados is that, at the good places that make them fresh, they'll add pecans (nuez) if you ask nice. It doesn't get better than that. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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miamimike says on Mar 9, 2008, 23:29: G'Loid--On the Masons, just curious because of your Avatar, Masonic eye, like on our Dollar Bill. My Dad, who is now deceased, was a 32nd Degree Freemason. In fact, he attained 33rd degree but that's Honorary of course. At the time of his Death, he was the oldest active member of his Bluelodge, having completed 69 years of active memebrship. Quite a run by any standard,,, "Wait a minute. What did you just say? You're predicting $4-a-gallon gas? That's interesting. I hadn't heard that." -- Feb. 28, 2008 --George W. Bush, Washington, D.C. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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gringoloid says on Mar 10, 2008, 06:46: mike, yea, my father was too; but these aren't the masons i'm talking about. i think scotty around here is a mason too. almost all masons are 'super americans', that do tremendous service work in their area. Who are the three blind men? 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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CatGirl says on Mar 10, 2008, 12:45: Loid...Do you mean Freemasons vs Masons? ;))) Love and Time: the only two things that cannot be bought, but only spent 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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gringoloid says on Mar 10, 2008, 13:33: CG...yes, your point is well taken. i don't want to disparage your everday mason.......that would be totally wrong. they do a lot of good work, and most wouldn't know what albert Pikes, 'Morals and Dogma' was, let alone understand the philosophy contained within. Who are the three blind men? 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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gringoloid says on Mar 10, 2008, 13:39: maybe man t does believe these things. all those spanish lessons are going to put him into the forefront of the North American Union when Canada becomes 'free entry' to mexicans and americans. Who are the three blind men? 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Lucas Freley says on Mar 10, 2008, 15:00: De pronto, muchas gracias por el comentario. Yo no se si sabias que Borges fue perdiendo la vista en su juventud, hasta quedar totalmente ciego. Muchos de su cuentos fueron escritos desde su ceguera. Yo creo que por eso tanta lucidez en sus obras. A mi me gusta muchisimo El Laberinto. Lo que decis acerca de que parecia pedante, es verdad. Pero yo creo que tal vez era como un escudo que usaba, ya que siendo ciego, probablemente era como una especie de autodefensa. Sin embargo hoy si veo algun reportaje antiguo, la sabiduría que tenía ese hombre es...magistral (como dijiste). Es gracioso, porque cuando estaba en el Colegio me parecía un tipo aburrido y si, medio pedante. El vivió muchos años en Ginebra, pero nunca dejó de ser un porteño de ley. Vivía en pleno centro de Buenos Aires, y esos cuentos de cuchilleros de principios de siglo 20 son fiel reflejo de aquel Buenos Aires tanguero, arrabal, melancolico y nostalgioso. Hoy que estás esplendida y que todo lo iluminas, demos un paseo, vuelta por el Universo (Gustavo Cerati) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Man Tequila says on Mar 10, 2008, 16:53: Hmmm. Not only did I enjoy reading about synarchism, I also had the satisfaction of knowing GL had read every single link in the article. Take that, uh... Gumersindo Magaña Negrete. Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez) 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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gringoloid says on Mar 10, 2008, 17:48: you see man t...............you've got it all figured out! Who are the three blind men? 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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miamimike says on Mar 10, 2008, 21:53: G'Loid, its true, a Majority of the Movers&Shakers in the World are Freemasons. When I was in Key West on a Visit last August, I gave my friends a Tour of Truman's Little Whitehouse(he used it most winters and conducted the nation's business from there) They were surprised to find out he was a Freemason of the highest order. They had many Pictures of him at various stages of his Masonic Life. Very Impressive for those with an interest in Freemasonry. "Wait a minute. What did you just say? You're predicting $4-a-gallon gas? That's interesting. I hadn't heard that." -- Feb. 28, 2008 --George W. Bush, Washington, D.C. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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