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Somondoco, Colombia

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This is a quaint old town nestled on the slopes of the mountain of the same name, where for millenia the residents have mined emeralds. The little church has graced the Central Park for 260 years and the site has held a church for well over 500 years. If you visit be sure to try the Chicharons de Quajada and treat from the area. The climate is mild with no extremes of temperature and wonderful people. There are Handicrafts made from palm , corn and banana parts.

Population: 500/17000 Elevation: 1750 meters. Average temperature: 15 degrees Celcius. | Editing history.

Things to do:

History

This unique town has a very long history, one that started centuries before the first Europeans set foot on this continent. The location of the village on the slopes of the Mountain of the same name, assured the survival through the conquest by the Spaniards. This mountain is the historical source of the beautiful emeralds that are famous throughout the world. The natives had hidden the entrances to the mines very carefully. Since the topography is rugged and the vegetation is aggressive, the natives were vital for the exploitation of the mines. This is the probable reason why there is no founder of the village. Most other town and cities have recognized the commander of the Spanish forces as the founder of the municipality. Somondoco does not have a founder.

Today Somondoco is a very small village that is a center for a large agricultural area with a myriad of subsistence farms. There is very little commercial farming, but the benevolent climate, abundant water and fertile soil, provide a good place to live and work. The climate is mild with no temperature extremes or violent storms. It never freezes and rarely reaches the mid 80s.

Things to do

The Mountain has a clear path to the summit, from which the view is spectacular on a clear day. After a morning climb, sit in the historic town square and look at the villagers going by. Tuesday is market day, with dozens of farmers from the outlaying farms there to buy and sell produce and cuajada.

Places to eat

The town has a reputation as a gastronomic center. People come from as far away as Bogota to have lunch at one of the two specialty restaurants, Los Lagos and Vacalandia. Mojarra is a local fish specialty, and the chicharon de Cuajada is also famous. There is also a nice little restaurant next to the park that serves comida Corrientes for $3,500COP. Some times Diana also makes Sancocho or Ajiaco, DELICIOUS.

Festivals

There is a Fiesta and Feria that is held during the Puente in Mid September. There are dance demonstrations, a beauty contest, musical groups, Becerradas (bull fight with cows, not killed), a procession to the peak and a mass.

Nature

This is a rural area on the edge of some very rugged country. Bird watching and general nature study is excellent. An experienced birder should have no problem logging 30 different species. There is the possibility of seeing the Andean Condor. The gorgeous Blue Butterfly of the movie of that name, is locally common in the quebradas.

Practical information:

There is no ATM in town at this time,but there is a rumor that Banco Agrario will install one soon. The are 2 in Guategue, about 30 mim away.

Getting around & transportation:

Located in the Valle de Tenza, Somondoco is easy to get to either by flota or by car from Bogota or Tunja. While there are direct buses to Somondoco either from Bogota or Tunja, there is usually only 1 bus coming from each a day. It is much easier to go to Guateque and from there take a taxi to Somondoco across the Valley. There are several taxis easily found near the Central Park for inexpensive transportation within the area, or to Guateque and Garagoa.

By car from Bogota, go north on the Auto Pista to Sisga and turn right (East) towards Los Llanos and Guateque. 8km past Guateque is the road to Somondoco, well marked by road signs and a large Billboard. Turn right and the village is about 7 km ahead.


 

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Peter (Moderator) (Trustee board) (Dev team) (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jun 4, 2008, 07:13:

Poorbuthappy member Bill http://poorbuthappy.com/billturley/ lives here, you could contact him to find a place to stay.

Poor but snappy

1 funny, 0 helpful.

nigel81 says on Apr 29, 2009, 07:46:

Bill and his wife Gloria are amazing hosts who welcomed both my girlfriend and I to the quaint village of Somondoco with open arms- if you do decide to go there, make sure you contact Bill, he knows everything and everyone in the area and can also help with booking a room at the El Cerro hotel (the only one in town)

A word on Somondoco:

If you are looking for a taste of rural life in Colombia away from tourists and other travellers, get on a bus and head to Somondoco- you will not be disappointed. There is no tourist infrastructure a la Cartagena/Santa Marta/Bogota (we were the only guests/tourists in town) and nothing to do apart from revel in the delights of small town life, meet the incredibly affable locals, go for a walk in the neighbouring areas, or simply, drink a beer whilst observing the spectacular vista from the main square, in the shadow of the beautiful town church.
A tremendous place with idiocyncracies that will not fail to impress- if you do make it there, make sure you try an ice-cream from the 'house at the bottom of the hil'l: they sell THE best ice cream in Colombia.

(Thanks to Bill and Gloria for making our Colombia trip so much richer in experience- if you're ever in London drop me a line, I'd love to return the favour!)

0 funny, 0 helpful.

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