tripreport

The reason I visited Colombia is a long story. But Im gonna keep it short for you. When I was backpacking Asia five years ago I met a Colombian Seb on a world trip. We got along well and travelled a fair bit together.

Later when he got to Europe he stayed at my place and I promised him to go and visit him some day in his country. We stayed in touch and this year I finally booked the ticket and arranged my trip. No need to tell how excited I was. I didnt really make any preparations, Im more ot the go with the flow kinda traveller. The only plan I had was to travel the coast first before I would visit S in Medellin.

When I landed in Bogota I expected a completely different vibe, it seemed so European, as if I landed in some hilly Spanish place. No beggars around, no shady types, everything well organized.

I decided to stay somwhere in La Candaleria, basically just becos I heard its the travellers hangout. Seb warned me before that it wasnt such a safe area but I guess I was kind of oblivious to it. I tried Platypus but it was full so I ended up in centro plaza, jewish place. Good value for hot shower and cable television. Also the falafel was delicious.

Down the street there are a few good cafes cant recall the names but I had some pleasant nights there. There werent too many tourists around, just a couple of long term bearded poncho wearing hippies. Not really the types I connect with, but nevertheless good company when drunk on ron. Walking back to the hostel was always a bit shady as some dodgy characters kept approaching me, but nothing really bad.

At daytime la Candelaria was a real nice place with lots of students, which created a bohemian atmosphere. Reminded me a lot of Salvador de Bahia in Brazil. My favorite spot was definately the little square where storytellers came to tell urban legends.

Then one day I went to the famous zona rosa to see what all the fuss was about. It was there I met Catalina, rich girl who arranged a room for me in hotel Exelsior, about 40 euro for a single. Clean, good bed, and perfect location one block from the zona rosa. I ended up staying there for almost a week, enjoying the nightlife, eating El Coral at Atlantis. She turned out to be a great host. Took me to her families appartment, with a maid living there, first culture shock for me to speak of. One night she took me to Gothica, a fairly big club with lots of locals partying.

It was there where I met Ines, who after only 10 minutes talking to me, introduced me to pick me up the next day and take me to her fathers horse club. And yes next day she came by, woke me up ( I was so hangovered) and took me horseriding. Then after she took me to the clubs restaurant, very fancy with food that was out of this world. She insisted to pay for it all, I didnt really know what to think of it but I thought man enjoy the ride.

After lunch she took me to her parents and introduced me to them, very friendly people. But all the time I kept thinking whats the catch. Her parents talked about their fincas in Cali and Perreira, that I would always be welcome there. At evening time she called all her friends and they decided to try get me drunk. And boy they did. At one point they suggested to take me to this place Andres Carne De Res, a name that sounded as music in my ears. I heard it almost got a legendary status in Bogota, and now I can see why. Its easily one of the best party places I ever been, that and the interior made it to be an unforgetable experience.


The next day my friend Jonathan arrived from nyc and later that day we took a plane to Cartagena. We found a little hotel tres banderas in the old city. Wasnt impressed with it (mosquitos, no smoking in room, unfriendly staff, too pricey for its value) so we decided to leave it. After a walk in the old city which was just stunning we met a local guy who offered us appartment for the same price as our hotel, an offer we obviously didnt decline. Clean, two large bedrooms, hifi and great balkony vieuw for only 50e.

We tried the beach but it reminded me too much of Benidorm in Spain so we focussed on the old city. It was a bit like walking in an open air museum, but it lacked atmosphere. Almost a ghostown feel to it. So we spent our time drinking on the outside bars, and ofcourse sunsets at Cafe Del mar. At night we tried a few spots but they reminded me too much of the seedy bars in Rio or Bangkok. Too many old gringos with badly dressed working girls. Maybe I was there at the wrong time but Cartagena, altough a beautiful city, didnt do it for me.

My friend S suggested to go to Santa Marta and stay at his cousins place. So next day Jon and I took a taxi to Santa Marta. My first impression was overall much better then Cartagena, people were actually living there. The noises, the chaos, the smells, and still a kind of chill out vibe, I knew it was much more my kinda place.

Diana was living in Rodadero, some 10 minutes from the city, and mainly a tourist place for Colombians. Di was a underwaterbiologiste, and living together with her two dogs. We clicked immediately. That same evening she took us to La Puerta, a place where I would spend many nights. Really cool bar with mainly reggeaton and salsa music. The crowd was a mixure of locals and backpackers which created an irresistable vibe. Lots of dancing, drinking sweating mingling. Perfect place to make new contacts. Altough some working ladies it wasnt seedy at all like Cartagena. Met a bunch of coked up Israelis who were great fun, trying to hit on Di but making fools out of themselves, luved it.

After spending almost a week in Rodadero we decided to make a move to Taganga, which we should have done way sooner. I absolutely loved the little bay, such a mellow vibe. Reminded me a bit of Matala in Greece of Haadrin on Koh Phangan. Stayed at Casa Blanca, the view from our balcony was priceless. Our neighbours were the Israelis, so we had a couple shenanigans with them.

Had some fun nights at La Garaja, similar vibe to La Puerta. Lots of nose cand around, and that reflected on the locals and tourists there. There were some famous people around, like a German guy who saved two Taganga sisters from poverty and married one, who became one of Colombias black top models. Had a brief talk with him, cool guy and doing lots for the Taganga community. Anyway my time in Taganga was bliss.

But it was time for new horizons, and Parc Tayrona was the next destination. It was a bit of an effort to get there, but I liked it, the horses, the walking in the jungle, it was all well worth it. Our beach was going to be Cabo, and it turned out to be one of my favorite beaches ever.

Di had arranged for us to stay in the little cabin on the hill between the two beaches. It was the only huts to stay at, everyone else was staying in tents or hammocks. Becos it only had one restaurant, the place had a nice community feel where everyone gathered after sunset and had drinks together. Met lots of intresting people there and had some really hillarious conversations.

But the best part of that place was our hut, and the balcony. The vieuw we had was just amazing, we had the luck to be there at full moon so at night the beaches were lighted by the moon, the sounds of the waves beneat us, its not possible to describe how wonderfull it really was.

But Seb was waiting for me in Medellin so it was time to say goodbye to the lovely Di, who had become more then just a summer romance. So next day I was on my plane to Medellin where Seb came to pick me up. He had arranged to stay the weekend at his families finca to do some serious partying and had ofcourse invited lots of girls.

At that point I hadn't told him about me and his cousin, which I was a bit awkard about. Seb was doing well, he went into politics (just like his all family) and is in congress now. It was a hedonistic weekend at la finca, at night when we were in a bit of a state we managed to drive to the the filmfestival in Santa Fe, where we had a blast. Really cool place and like minded people. Being surrounded by all those beauties it was not always that easy but I stayed strong.

After the weekend Seb took me up the mountains and introduced me to Luisito, an 45 year old hippie who had his little house on one of the mountains surrounding the valley. He spends his time growing weed and paragliding. And thats what we did, an incredible experience flying over Medellin city. When I go back I will take lessons so I can solo fly.

Spent a couple of days at Parc Lleyras in Medellin, cool area but the people were way too plastic for me. And not only in the physical way. And more, I was missing Di. So I shortened my stay and told Seb I would fly to Bogota to spend my last week with his cousin in Villa de leyva. He was surprised but happy for us and made me promise to come back soon and do some travelling with him within his country.

Di came to pick me up from the airport and had arranged a bus to Villa de leyva. I loved this place, the little patios, the scenery and most of it the company ofcourse. Its like time stood still there. We made a trip to the river and waterfall, planned to pick some mushrooms but didnt at the end, decided to save that for next trip. I dont have to say the goodbye at the airport was emotional but we have been in touch daily since then. I ll probably head back in March, so yes Im still excited. I wrote this down to share my wonderfull experience with you, but no words can describe my trip. English is not my mother language so dont mind the typos. Thanx for your time. Chao.

http://public.fotki.com/tayroneman/

By Kem on Dec 28, 2006, 09:19 in Friendly Talkzone.

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Crazy4Cali says on Dec 28, 2006, 09:32: Interesting post... I think. At least it might be if I were able to read it. Headings or, at least, paragraph breaks would make it easier to digest. For me, the words just seem to run together into a big blob. Perhaps you could edit it to add some breaks? 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Kem says on Dec 28, 2006, 09:54: lo siento ! dont know how to fix it 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 28, 2006, 10:13: What is your native language, Kem? I did a bit of editing I hope you don't mind. Cheers, Desi "Soy el que anda de noche en el vecindario, sé cuando ladra el perro, sé cuando canta el gallo sé cuando estan dormidos los muchachos de mi barrio..." (From a llanero song "El pajarito") "I have opinions of my own, strong opinions, but I don't always agree with them."-President George W. Bush 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Qubo says on Dec 28, 2006, 10:14: Great post Kem, Great post and your english is great. It felt as if we were there with you. I can see Di now, what a knockout!!! I don't blame you at all. Geez, it appears you friend Seb is the cream of the crop in Colombia. Glad that you had a great time and as I said your english is not bad at all. Where are you from? Thanks again.. Im just another colombian lover just like you.. 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Kem says on Dec 28, 2006, 11:02: Desideria, muchos gracias ! Qubo thank for your feedback I appriciate it. Im from Belgium, not the most exotic place -). And yes I was fortunate to meet all those great people. Chao ! 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Kem says on Dec 28, 2006, 11:03: native language is Dutch btw (but can help myself in french german spanish and english) 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Atrevido says on Dec 28, 2006, 11:32: The waterfall outside Villa De Leyva is a nice place to go hike even the it´s a popular camping place for marijuaneros. Getting transportation back to the village takes a while though. 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Qubo says on Dec 28, 2006, 11:35: Donc, Kem vous êtes Belgique..Flemish n'est ce pas? Alors qu'est ce que tu vas faire. Tu querida Di ya esta en Locombia. Ud. quiere regresar pronto. Calmese mi hijo.. Il faut de la patience... U seem like a well travelled educated lad. She might be the woman de tus sueños..take your time..let the dust settle b4 thinking about anything else..dude, your story telling was great..makes me want to go to colombia..wait a minute I'll be there next month.. Just finished looking at the pics..Never mind what I said..you are D man. Tell us more about your stay. We all know there are beautiful women in Colombia. Tell us about the ambiance of each region and the customs of the people. Je sais très bien las mujeres sont chaluereuse..LOL.. I never tried para gliding b4..How was that? Nice report man.. 0 funny, 0 helpful.

marcastillo says on Dec 28, 2006, 11:53: Wow…. great story. I lived Wow…. great story. I lived in Taganga back in 1997 and 1998 and you are right, the place is wonderful. I used to live in “Casa Blanca�, by that time the house was white and blue and it was not called CasaBlanca. My ex-parents-in-law used to live there (Teresa and Mario and my ex-sister-in-law Johana). By any chance, do you know if they are still around? Did you meet a peculiar guy called “Joselito� he looks like rastafari, sometimes friendly, but he used to make me laugh all the time. I saw your pictures and they brought back a lot of good memories. Thanks for sharing. Marsh 0 funny, 0 helpful.

thur says on Dec 28, 2006, 12:22: Leuk verhaal! Nice tripreport! Greetings, ~Sights & Sounds~ www.pbase.com/thur - www.pbase.com/thur 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Kem says on Dec 28, 2006, 15:10: great feedback people -) Atrevido tell me about it, we waited for this bus but when it arrived it was packed, but we managed to find some space. During the ride back the bus stopped several times to pick up some more people. It was almost like a joke: how you get 20 Colombians in a mini bus. Marcastillo sorry man but I saw a lot of rasta dudes but no one with that name. But I envy you having lived there that time, it must have been even more relaxed back then Qubo I see where you coming from but dont worry I know what Im doing. And its not like Im falling head over heels for some random colombiana. About the ambiance, it was definately the caribean, santa marta that did it to me. The people there were so nice, warm and simple. Whereas in Medellin it was more superficial, looks and all that. Medellin was all about decadence for me, drugs parties women fancy clubs restaurants, I enjoy it for a while but its not really my kinda scene. What I did like was the paragliding, really a special sensation, nothing like bungeejumping which is just a short adrenaline rush. With paragliding you are actually flying, and its really enjoying. One hour duo flight only costs 20e, but its just one guy who dedicated his life to flying, and he takes you. So dont expect a professional enviroment. But I recommand it to everyone intrested. Chao 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Peter (Moderator) says on Dec 28, 2006, 15:13: Great story, thanks! Great story, thanks! Poor but snappy 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Peter (Moderator) says on Dec 28, 2006, 15:18: I did a little bit more editing, adding paragraphs and some bold :) Poor but snappy 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Crazy4Cali says on Dec 28, 2006, 19:38: Thanks! That's much easier on the eyes. And it was an interesting story as I suspected it might be. 0 funny, 0 helpful.

utopiacowboy says on Dec 29, 2006, 15:14: Good post. Nice change from the endless gringa and Colombiana threads. Not that I mind the pics of the chicks with terrific knockers. Disclaimer: any comment I make is inane and is not to be taken seriously, and is so patently ridiculous that no one should take it seriously, even as an insult. 0 funny, 0 helpful.

redc says on Dec 30, 2006, 15:59: Makes me want to see more of Colombia. Really liked the story, understood it no problem. Thanks 0 funny, 0 helpful.

Lisa Zee says on Dec 30, 2006, 19:03: No problem KEM No hay problema with your English, we foreigers understand each other very well. GREAT POST. Nice to be able to read something diffrent. I enjoy when people like my beautiful country. 0 funny, 0 helpful.

elchantajista says on Dec 31, 2006, 01:25: enjoyed enjoyed your report sounds like u had a great time, i agree the only shocking thing about colombia is that all the negative press is not true anda de parranda en Bogota "Vicente" anda de parranda en Bogota "Vicente" 0 funny, 0 helpful.

LuLy says on Jan 8, 2007, 00:40: everything you said is so true i went to colombia for the first time in five years since i moved here and i will say that parque tayrona was the best experience i've had in my life. maybe its because i realy haven't lived that long but i felt like i was in some undiscovered paradise. and you're right, taganga is great although its very populated with stoners. other than the somewhat intoxicating fumes of weed, the atmosphere was very relaxing. i can also understand why you had so much fun at la puerta. i really wasnt supposed to be in there but i got it and i had tons of fun dancing like there was no tomorrow. i'm glad you had fun and that you're taking the time to explore colombia. 0 funny, 0 helpful.

cali373 says on Jan 8, 2007, 12:18: AHHHHHHHHH Taganga. ca va Kem. How long were you in Colombia and during which month? Just want to know because I am planning a long excursion there myself. You are right Medellin is very superficial with Bogota way out there that reminds me of L.A. Smile if you are a thinker! 0 funny, 0 helpful.

adrimm says on Jan 8, 2007, 20:28: Awesome post Great read, thanks for sharing. Kem was this your first trip to Latin America? 0 funny, 0 helpful.

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