Travel safety: a general introduction

Truth vs myth By Jason Spellberg, jspellberg at yahoo.com 2002-10-27 I just got back from a 2-week trip to Colombia--I visited Cartagena, Barranquilla, Bogota, and Cali. This was my first time in Colombia, and I wasn't sure what to expect. I have lots of friends who are Colombian (most of them removed from Colombia by at least one generation, though), and a couple of gringo friends who have been to Colombia, but not recently. Everybody I talked to pretty much told me that going there was a very bad idea. They said that I was very likely to get robbed, maybe even mugged at gunpoint, and that there was a very real chance that I could even be kidnapped. A gringo friend of mine told me that he couldn't sleep in his Bogota hotel room 4 years ago because he heard gunshots all night long. He told me that he was lucky to get out of Colombia alive and with his wallet. Another friend of mine who was born in Cali but who hasn't been there since 1957 went so far as to tell me to dye my hair black and color my skin brown so that I would blend in better (I am a fair-skinned read head)! Meanwhile, there was my Footprint guidebook and this website, both of which seemed to contrast sharply with the descriptions of violence and anarchy provided by so many of my friends. I didn't know which to believe, but I'd been wanting to visit Colombia for years, and, being recently laid off, decided just to go and see for myself.

Well, I am back now, and let me tell you that the real situation in Colombia is much, much closer to that portrayed in my guidebook, and on this website, than in the stories and warnings of my friends. I had not a single negative experience, not even so much as a picked pocket. At no time was I ever concerned for my life, safety, or property, and I spent a good deal of time walking and club-hopping in certain areas of all four cities I visited at well past midnight. I can't even recall ever being quoted a gringo price, not even in a taxi--this is something which happened to me nearly everyday when I was in East Africa. Instead, I found the people of Colombia to me overwhelmingly friendly and honest; they were far more interested in talking with me than in robbing or harming me.

Based on my experience in Colombia, I can reiterate the advice I saw on this website and in my guidebook. Colombia is a developing country, however parts of it are surprisingly clean and modern, even charming (I was especially impressed with Cartagena and Bogota). There is a lot of poverty there, and the gap between rich and poor is probably much worse than even in the USA. There is crime there, to be sure, but if you are smart and careful you will lessen the odds of becoming a target. Heed the advice in your guidebook, on this website, and from locals. Learn some Spanish, if you haven't already, so that you can at least comminicate the basics to locals there--your trip be both safer and more fun. When you pass people on the streets, try to look them in they eye and smile. Sometimes I saw people on the street and they looked mean, but in reality Colombians don't see very many foreigners, so they were probably more curious than anything. A smile from me was all that was needed for them to smile back, and extend me a friendly "buenos!"

There is anarchy in Colombia, but it is mostly in the countryside, where guerillas control the infrastructure and enforce a pseudo-military rule. The tourist who stays in the cities will never know there are problems, because in the cities normal life goes on for most Colombians. A car bomb exploded outside of Medellin when I was in Bogota, killing 25 people. While the horrible incident was all over the TV news, it caused the same kind of reaction from Colombians as the sniper shootings (which were also going on when I was in Colombia) did in the USA--deep concern, but not rioting or looting. The impression I got was that going to Cartagena, Barranquilla, Bogota, or Cali is no more dangerous than going to New York, San Francisco, Paris, or London. In all of these places, the visitor must take precautions so as not to be a target of crime, but, if such precautions are taken, there is unlikely to be a problem at all. I think that the bad rap Colombia gets is partly a result of the stereotyping the country gets in the western media as a country of narcotics and violence. I can't recall any Hollywood movie that has ever portrayed Colombians as anything but drug traffickers, can you? While this stereotype, like most, is based on truth, it is hardly the whole truth; in the two short weeks I was there I met dozens of students, several prostitutes, many hotel operators and shopkeepers, a couple of hairstylists, a few bankers, three actresses, a TV director, a logistical engineer, and scores of other real Colombians. Drugs may still be a big part of the Colombian economy, but they are not the backbone of this country. Neither is violence, at least not anymore. If you're en experienced traveller with a desire to visit adventurous, exotic countries where few tourists go, Colombia won't disappoint you.

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General safety By Fabian Sanchez 2003-01-28 I've just spent 6 months in Colombia and it is not a safe place. I now have no illusions that if you're a gringo and the guerillas stop your bus then you're in a lot of trouble (a long spell in the jungle while your folks raise that ransom by remortgaging their house). The guerillas have become a lot more agressive and in some places the shit is kicking off a lot more than before. So when you get on a bus, remember that you're running a very real danger. I've found that a lot of 'travellers' (i.e. tourists) underestimate this a lot. Always ask about the situation before you get on a bus.

Also don't take night buses as the risks increase enormously. A Colombian friend of mine was on a bus that was hijacked by 6 guys with pistols - when the passengers had to get off the bus and lie face down she thought that they were going to be executed (cleansed)- this does happen .

Watch out doing drugs, even smoking weed. Where I was living the local paras declared a cleansing (assasination campaign) of drug users. So think before you spark up that joint. Be very careful carrying ANYTHING. A joint is now an automatic 3 year prison sentence, and not all the cops can be bribed. So hide it well or better don't bother. The risks outweigh the gains. I haven't been to a colombian prison and I have no intention of doing so.

Beware of set-ups. There are people that lure you back to their place to kidnap you. I've even heard about a hot-chick that picks guys up, takes them home, drugs them and then they wake up to find that their kidneys are gone.

Also beware of public spaces, walking under bridges and anywhere that has a camp fire or makeshift homes around.

Oh yeah, my favourite piece of advice that was given to me. Trust no-one.

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poor advice By Unavailable 2003-03-14 Fabian, By saying that "Colombia" is an unsafe place, you're saying the entire country is an unsafe place. I spent a few months in Barranquilla and the city was completely safe. I'm a gringo and I roamed freely with a friend without problem. The city did not differ much from your average US city. Of course, problems in Colombia are active, but to say the entire country isn't a safe place is like saying because New York City isn't safe at night that the whole state of New York is unsafe.

To those of you who read his post: Get advice before you leave. Learn where to go and where not to go. Colombia in general may at times be unsafe, but if you listen to the suggestions of natives, your trip will not only be successful but a pleasurable one.

I'll return to Colombia in July for a few weeks. Barranquilla & Cartagena are gorgeous!

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Is it very safe? By Russian, superonagr at mail.ru 2003-05-04 Most people feel very safe up until the time they are face down in a gutter. Just because nothing happened to you on your stay does not mean that by pushing the odds you won't end up robbed, raped, shot, killed or kidnapped or all the above. Here is a saying that I hold dear and I am no inexperienced traveler. "Just because you are paranoid it does not mean that someone is not out to get you." If you are traveling overland by bus in Colombia you are absolutly an idiot! You have no idea who may be stopping this bus or how they may feel about your particular origin...American, English, Irish, etc. By the way if you think you are safe because you are not an American wake up and smell the coffee. The IRA is training the FARC. If your bus happens to be stopped by the PLN you and your English, Irish lilt may get you dead, depending on the ignorance or recent FARC action in the mind of the PLN. You have no control what happens in the road ahead of you and this is foolish to ride on a hope and a prayer. Is your life worth this risk? I am not saying you won't run into people on this web site and other places that will tell you riding the bus is fine. When I ride the bus in Italy I don't ask if I have to worry. If you have to ask then something is wrong. Maybe some of you should take a good inventory of your life and ask what it is worth. I have been in some very sticky positions. I have said things like "well all they can do is kill me" I have since learned how wrong that is. A lot of things are worse than dying and no matter how brave you think you are you will always want to live over the alternative. The years of your life you will spend getting over such a bad thing fails in comparison to a bumpy bus ride around the mountain. Colombia is a beautiful country and just like the ocean it can be enjoyed but it must be respected. The Coast Guard picks up folks all the time dead and alive who didn't file a float plan, didn't check the weather, didn't know what they were doing, got in over there heads and now they are dead. This analogy holds true for travel in Colombia as well. If you intend to roam about the countryside than you may join the other 50 Americans who are kidnapped every year in Colombia. Here are my rules:

1. I don't take a bus through the countryside or in the cities. Take a taxi when in the city or ride with friends. If you can't afford the taxi's than stay home. If you want to travel to the cities do so by plane. If you can't afford the ticket than stay home.

2. Trust no one that you don't know. If you are traveling and approached walk away. Just walk away. Don't haggle don't try to figure out if it is a scam or not just walk away. If they don't let you walk away than fight like hell to get away and run.

3. This is the best piece of street wisdom I could give anyone. While traveling and coming across the seedy type they will be testing the tourist. (Gringos) A mean look might be flashed in your direction to scare you. Prepare yourself ahead of time for this event. Do not engage the thugs in a staring contest but don't break your neck looking away. The quick look away (A huge weakness signal, your toast) in hopes this person will not notice you or so you may beleive if I don't look at him he can't see me. You will not be invisible you will be a target. The last thing a thief or thug wants is a fight on their hands. If you are relatively in good shape they may fear you as much as you them. Expecially if you are American. Some gringos carry guns, some know how to defend themselves and most are not push-overs. Since they are looking for a victim simply don't be one. Don't act like one and that involves returning their look with a look of your own. One that says. "Yes, I see you over there but I am no one to be messed with" Male or female this will work. Don't look at them angry or like you are a tough guy just simply show them that you see them and you are aware of them and then go about your business of NOT BEING A VICTIM. Confidence will keep you safe more than any body guard.

Of course there is a lot more things but these I have not seen shared here so I thought I would bring them up.

Colombia is a beautiful country I am married to a Colombian and plan on doing my tour in Colombia next month. We are sharing our countries with each other for extended periods of time. I love things about both countries and so since compromise is the key to a relationship I will do my tour in Colombia for the next two years then back in the US for two. Some who may consider marring a Colombian should take note of. Colombians are very family oriented for the most part so be fair with them and put some time on their turf. If you can't do this than consider whether you should marry a Colombian.

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planning a trip to columbia! thank you, thank you, thank you, this web site and the articles are very informative. i enjoy traveling off the beaten path but i do realize that caution is always the rule. i believe if more of us travel to columbia and pass on the excellent travel experiences the columbian people will be better off in the long run. my trip will be from late december until mid january. i'll be sure to fill you in on my adventure. thanks again. bruce c.

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