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Travel in Colombia by overnight bus

I will be in Colombia from 12/26-1/12, I will enter the country in Bogota and leave from Cartegena.

I was thinking of spending maybe a week around Bogota and the surrounding area, then moving to Medellin for a few days and then up to the northern coast before leaving from Cartegena. Is Medellin definitely worth the few days or should I skip it and focus on Bogota and the surrounding area and the northern coast only?

Travelling in other countries I have preferred to take overnight buses, is it OK to take an overnight bus from BOG-MED and from MED-CTG? If so, will I need to book bus tickets in advance?

If it is unsafe and I am forced to fly, what prices can I expect for one-way airfares from BOG-MED and from MED-CTG? Will I be able to book the flights a day or two prior to the flight or do I need to make reservations prior to arriving in Colombia?

By atx on Nov 29, 2005, 19:35 in Friendly Talkzone. AddThis Social Bookmark Button


utopiacowboy says on Nov 29, 2005, 20:25:

Given a choice between skipping Bogota and Medellin, I'd skip Bogota but then I'm prejudiced.

Disclaimer: any comment I make is inane and is not to be taken seriously, and is so patently ridiculous that no one should take it seriously, even as an insult.

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Metatron says on Nov 30, 2005, 00:15:

Dont Take a bus - Especially Overnight
Internal airfares are pretty cheap - BOG-MED-CTG probably less than $500000 COP ( $200 US ).

Busses may be safe but you never know. Nightime driving in Columbia always scares me both from an accident point of view and kidnap/robbery. Trust me - you feel pretty brave and confident until the bus gets stopped in a roadblock and you peer at the guys with the UZI's coming on board and try to figure out if they are the good guys or your tour guides for an extended, unwanted eco-vacation. Been there a few times and trust me - it ain't worth the hassle.

Take a bus during the day if you really want to see the country but there is still danger. Bus ride at night - no way.

Just my $.02.

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bjorn says on Nov 30, 2005, 00:24:

Take the daybus Although guerilla or paramilitary really is not the greatest danger when taking the nightbus, there's definitely a risk of getting robbed by common criminals. Also, the risk of accidents to is not to be underestimated. Taking daytime buses however, is quite safe these days in Colombia, although many seem to think otherwise. I always take bus when in Colombia, but very rarely nightbuses. I am a blond Scaninavian and I have never have had any problems, including the two times I was stopped in a FARC roadblock in 2003. But, of course you never know. Kidnappings do happen and no one is immune to it.

It's your choice.
Bjorn

Bjorn

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pedro says on Nov 30, 2005, 01:14:

Medellin is a city you could have a lot of fun in. But it's not so compelling from a purely touristic point of view if you can only stay a few days.

Not sure how busy Bogota and Medellin are around Xmas and New Years. I am trying Cali this year, they have the Ferias de Cali at this time (last week of December).

Nightlife is quiet in Colombia during the week, even in big cities. So if you're going to Medellin for example, as a rule you should try and be there on the weekend.

It's probably good value for you to take a day bus so you can see the scenery of the country.

que nota!

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webmanco says on Nov 30, 2005, 03:55:

Sabaneta and Guatape The road from Bogotá to Medellín is heavaly guarded, as it is the road to Guatape. The busses "Flotas" know the scheduled better because if you happen to arrive near Medellín after dark you might be forced by the Ejercito Naciona, to stay until dawn to resume the trip.

I myself was stopped by the Ejercito Nacional, when in the middle of the road and around 7:00 pm, I stepped down from the car to take a pic, in a matter of 10 seconds a few soldiers jumped out the bushes and questioned me about what was I doing.

Then, because it was late I was recommended to stay in a hostal until dawn to resume the trip.





Guatape



Iglesia en Guatape



Medellín




El Peñon



Sabaneta


Guatape




COLOMBIA

...A yo, déjenme queto y no me jodan má! ...

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lozza says on Nov 30, 2005, 06:06:

I always travel by bus. If you can afford it, fly, the difference in time traveling is immense. However, I understand why many people say don’t travel by bus it has been a voiced concern for years, but I have been traveling all over Colombia by night bus for the past 5 years between Bogota-Medellin, Medellin-Cali, Cali-Popayan, Medellin-Cartagena and for two years frequently between Medellin and Valledupar.
I’m not saying you should or shouldn’t travel by bus, I’m not encouraging or discouraging it, I’m just saying I have always traveled by bus, usually at night and have never had a negative experience, other than dripping air-conditioning, over or under heating, rancid food-stops, shitty stereos and terrible movies!! I have also met many other foreigners who do the same and I have never heard a first hand story of robbery or kidnapping.
I guess what I want to know is to whom are all these robberies and kidnapping happing. I have never heard of a foreigner being kidnapped straight off a bus, I have heard first-hand stories of The ELN or FARC stopping buses, checking ID and that’s it and I have heard first-hand stories of Colombians being robbed on the bus (some years ago now). The most frightening experiences/stories I have heard are those concerning bad driving and the accidents that have occurred.
As others have already mentioned, traveling by day is worth it for the scenery, although further north it can get a bit monotonous.
Just a bit curious about the ‘don’t travel by bus as a foreigner, you may be kidnapped’ voice that is so popular. How many foreigners have actually been kidnapped off the buses in recent years?

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carter says on Nov 30, 2005, 11:53:

Lozza 0 reported cases since 1991 when a English backpacker got caught in a cross fire at a roadblock and was killed. Not a kidnapping attempt but a sad incident.

people on this site say that kidnappings go unreported but I personally believe that if a foriegner was killed here it would be in the international press and if someone was kidnapped they would tell there story once they were at home safe and sound.

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lozza says on Nov 30, 2005, 12:21:

Exactly. I personally don't feel at risk when travelling by bus as a foriegner, and i don't understand where the evidence is to suggest i would be.

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caslug says on Nov 30, 2005, 14:08:

i always hear about.. foreigner being stopped every now and then by FARC, with them simplying checking the passport and letting everyone cont. on with no problem. BUT these eyewitness account are ALL from NON AMERICANS, ie european travellers. I like to hear if there are US citizens that got stopped, showing their blue passport, then having FARC say ¨buenas dias¨ and let go. Are FARC more tolerant of NON US people?

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poco says on Nov 30, 2005, 18:34:

5 cans short of a six pak English backpacker got caught in a cross fire at a roadblock

He was wearing camo slacks,, at night,, if was said he could not find his way out of a 4 door outhouse,, but that was just a rumor.

Doubt you have any trouble. I travel by bus at night,, usually because I left late on the way home.

Interesting,, lots of police on the road,, check points at the toll booths,, bus searches more common,, PLUS you will see a guy with a shotgun in the middle of NO WHERE,,, watching the highway,, a great confidence booster. BTW: Don't take pictures,, this will NOT be a PHOTO opportunity. Think the flash hurts their eyes.

"When you men get home and face an anti-war protester, look him in the eyes and shake his hand. Then, wink at his girlfriend, because she knows she's dating a pussy." Quote - General Tommy Franks

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saritafercho says on Dec 1, 2005, 04:00:

hard facts On another thread asking about buses from Bogota to Cali, I asked the same question: what are the hard facts on this, instead of vague scaremongering? Nobody could come up with a single example. Is that because foreigners don't travel on buses or because to be honest, we are actually not that much use to them? This is what I have been told by my Colombian husband and his family. They are generally more interested in kidnapping someone that they know to have a lot of money, than a random person who might be (relatively speaking obviously) poor. The last example of kidnapping "gringos" that we can remember hearing about was a group in Ciudad Perdida, a place that everybody warns against visiting if you value your life/safety. My husband said they were insane to go there, it's like walking into the lion's den. As for US citizens, I don't think it's fair to comment on whether they are more likely to be a target for problems, but I think many Colombians feel that the US as a nation, and I am definitely not talking about individual Americans, gives Colombia a hard deal - many rich and important Americans are happy to consume the cocaine and then planes go over and spray the fields so that the farmers are left with nothing, breeding resentment and more... I am sure I will get a severe reaction for saying this, but I am only repeating what several Colombians have said to me about the US government approach to the situation. Neither can we think of a better solution to this vicious circle however....

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carter says on Dec 1, 2005, 05:35:

Saritafercho The ciudad perida trek is one enjoyed by two groups of gringos a week of around 12 per group. Just prior to the kidnapping the Colombian government made a commercial encouraging people to travel in Colombia featuring shots of Ciudad Perida.

If the government is advertising it as a safe travel destination are these people really that INSANE to have gone there? Of course they did a full back flip on this after the fact and said people had no right to go there. I was in the TV commercial by the way so thats how I know about it.

As for how many foriegners are travelling per day by bus my prediction based on the current occupacy of the hostals and how often everyone is moving around is over 30 backpackers per day catch a bus. For the Platypus in Bogota alone there is over 10 people coming and going today and that is only one of four places filled with backpackers in Bogota.

currently in Colombia there would be over 250 backpackers not including Isrealis who I guess would make up another 100 (atleast)
all travelling regularly. I´d say most would take a bus every 5 days so on that prediction you´re looking at around 50 - 70 foriegners travelling by bus per day. This isn´t even the high season.

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litost says on Dec 1, 2005, 05:56:

Carter, I think this is coming down to an issue of age.

I am 25, have US and colombian citizenship, and travelled alot around Colombia especially over the last year. Bogota, Medellin, Cali, Santa Marta, Taganga, Tayrona, Santa Fe de Antioquia, Salento, Pereira, Manizales, Neiva, San Agustîn, Villa de Leyva etc. All by bus. While doing so, I met a lot of foreigners, all travelling backpacker style and they had no complaints or worries. They were happy as hell and would tell me how travelling in Colombia was like a breath of fresh air, far from the more targeted insecurity and hassle in other neighboring countries. So when I give advice, it's based on my personal experience and that of all the other travellers who live in or have passed through Colombia.

The problem is, many of the people who post on this site are... well, let's say not in the same age group as me and most of the people I've met. To some, Colombia is just a place to come and find a woman to get married, only incidentally they get to know the country and MAYBE travel around a little, but God forbid they leave the main cities or dare venture out onto the roads. Don't get me wrong, I don't judge these people, I understand they are in a different period in their lives, have kids and family to worry about, job, comfort, security, etc. tend to become more important as you age. They also tend to be less adventurous and are fine just partying or going out to restaurants in the cities where they feel safer and in a way closer to home. They have a fear of the unkown, which is the colombian roads and countryside, and find comfort in justifying their reluctancy to explore further by saying "it's just too dangerous".

Just a thought.

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caslug says on Dec 1, 2005, 06:16:

you hit on the head litost.. when you´re young, you have less to lose, hence more adventurous and willing to do thing other people think is crazy. As you get older and have more wealth and responsiblity your outlook changes. And you get more conservative, small minority try to break the trend. Also, when your young money becomes and issue, because you have little of it, so you HAVE to find ways of travelling that is cheap, staying in hostal, taking bus, etc., But as you get older and have some money, do you really feel like staying in a hostal, sharing rooms with strangers, riding a rickety bus, or staying in a divey hotel WHEN you can EASILY afford travel and stay in comfort?

I´ve met lots of young backpackers in may travel and they like the adventour and rave about how cheap it is for them. To them, they can´t understand why i would pay $40USD a night, while they are paying 7USD, but they have to bunk with another person(which is their friend). When i was in my earlier twenties i did the same thing they did and had a great time.

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Gator says on Dec 1, 2005, 06:42:

Mil Gracias, Sr. Litost! Hopefully some of the members will read ALL the posts, disreguard what most of the scare mongers have to say, and enjoy a beautiful country and the wonderful people who are proud to call themselves Colombians.

Some say, 90% of the time, "No hay de qúe amigo, estoy aguí para asustarte." Some would feel more confortable, I think, living in barrio Egipto.

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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