Thinking about living in Medellin - Reality check please

august says on Jul 17, 2008, 08:03:

I don´t know about your specific security question, but for me, I´ve probably spent about a years worth of time in visits to Medellín and although I dig the city, I´d hesitate to live here (again, Medellín) just because of the poor air quality (exhaust everywhere) and the fact that paisas seem to become total jerks when it comes to transportation (a-hole drivers and passengers alike). These seem like small bones, but I feel like over time they take a toll.

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tejasmarcos says on Jul 17, 2008, 08:43:

the above statement is correct and august makes good points.

2.5 years and no break ins here. there are alot of other areas that are good to live in besides poblado. if you chose to live in a gated or monitored area, the chances of someone targeting you is minimal and it would not even concern me at this stage of my experience with the city. if you attempt to locate to a lower strata area for economic reason and have no guards on your property or area, your chances of being targeted for theft or extorcion over time increase. in other words, if you are perceived to be the rich foreigner in a lower strata, unguarded area, you will draw attention. you could never have a problem, but the risk is higher than if you chose the first option described.

* medellin is safe and alot of fun. there are drawbacks of course, but it has changed my perspective on life for sure.

trying to walk a straight line on sour mash and cheap wine...

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ferran says on Jul 17, 2008, 08:47:

I love Medellin and some of its people, have stayed there many times and have planned in opening up a business and living there, I have even bought some realstate, but lately I have been having doubts about living in Medellin or Colombia in general, the main reason is the Colombian people, dont get me wrong I have very good friends in Colombia and I do believe theres good people in Colombia, but Iam a bit tired of being seen as a target for a quick peso, even the people you trust if you are not carefull or as they say there "dar papaya" will take advantage, so you allways have to be on your toes, eventually you become anesthesized and dont react to it as much, but nevertheless its the Colombian mentality to "Coronar"...... for example: two Colombian guys find a chicken that lays a golden egg every month, the first egg they get, its spent right away in prepagos and guaro, now they dont have anything to eat, so one says to the other, No hermano tengo un filo el H.P. vamos a coronar y nos comemos esa malpa gallina, si pues..... hagale pues hermano mate esa malpa...........
even out the terrain and move cautiously and it could be a wonderful place to live, depending on where or what stage of life you'r at. Best of luck and happines

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lpdiver says on Jul 17, 2008, 08:50:

Rent first.

ts

"cook some rice!"

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tejasmarcos says on Jul 17, 2008, 08:59:

rent first is a good idea. there is alot of brain damage here associated with unclear processes. it does take its toll. it takes a special person to live here full time or a retiree with no need to work and limitless patience.

trying to walk a straight line on sour mash and cheap wine...

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august says on Jul 17, 2008, 09:01:

Not to harp on the negatives of the city, it has its wonderful sides, but you did ask for a reality check. Another thing I was thinking is that, and I´m sure it depends on where you´re coming from, but Medellín is unfortunately a severely non-cosmopolitan city, in terms of relative amount of world culture available. I mean l´m a fan of the bandejas, but after a while a guy´s got to experience something non-Colombian - food, music, any cultural reflection - and that´s just not very much available here. It´s possible I just haven´t uncovered those aspects of the city, but for me, that´s a hang-up and eventually I imagine, a deal breaker.

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pedro says on Jul 17, 2008, 09:04:

Which part of Belen? Belen is a big neighbourhood that includes some sketchy parts down to estrato 2 maybe, and as high as estrato 4 or 5 like your place. Maybe that's why you get funny reactions when you tell them "Belen", like you'd be living in the ghetto.

You should be fine. I think your friends are short-sighted to tell you Poblado is the only option. Absolutely not.

You have a few inconveniences if you live in a house on the streetfront:
- beggars coming up to your window and asking for stuff
- the very informal garbage collection in the city means you have to think more about when / where / how to put it out to get it collected. If you lived in an apartment complex, you just chuck it down the chute next to the elevators.
- you don't have a layer of security to insulate you from the street. If you don't make a lot of enemies, this shouldn't be an issue.

que nota!

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droble77 says on Jul 17, 2008, 09:20:

joelg, why a detached home?

If you're really concerned about security over the long term, you can probably still get an outstanding apartment for the value you mentioned above in an estrato 5 area, maybe even for less than 200 million (but I only visit Colombia now and then so ask the regulars here about that. . . )

And w/ an apartment you'd have less worry about leaving it unoccupied, in fact, you could probably rent it out to another gringo for a month or two (or maybe even longer?) should you need to be back in the states for awhile. . .

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Catfish35 says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:05:

I wouldn't live in Medellin full time..the weather sucks..you will need a lot of anti-depressants. Unless you are from Seattle.....or maybe you are living in Mojave, California and need to see some precip!
You will get it there. If you get to see the sun for two days straight there you better look out because you'll pay for it..

"So many guns, and so few brains". sam spade

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lpdiver says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:07:

Catfish...really...I have spent 4-5 weeks in Medellin on three different occaisions and I don't recall lots of rain. Bogota was a different story though?

ts

"cook some rice!"

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Catfish35 says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:08:

The other thing I miss is the long lasting lazy evenings as the sun sets at 830 or 9 o' clock. Here right now in DC/Baltimore....

"So many guns, and so few brains". sam spade

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tejasmarcos says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:09:

take catfish for example;

that dude needs about $8000 - 10,000 per month or $20,000,000 COP to live the life in Medallo. why? because he rolls like a pimp daddy, throws caution to the wind and sips 97 Cristal Roederer from a boot! not to mention the string of babes that flock around his posse......

trying to walk a straight line on sour mash and cheap wine...

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minina says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:14:

jajaja poblado is the only logical choice. Me rio de janeiro. I was born and raised in Medellin and to me there are so many good neighborhoods, so much better than Poblado. Poblado is for tasteless gringos. Laureles, Envigado, Copacabana, el Oriente Antioqueño, are sooo much better than el Poblado.

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nueva york bombero says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:18:

Yeah, M , but would you recomend a gringo living there?

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lpdiver says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:20:

This gringo has spent much time in all of those place and felt comfortable. Of course I spent a lot of time in doce de Octobre and Santo Domingo and felt comfortable as well.

ts

"cook some rice!"

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minina says on Jul 17, 2008, 11:34:

NY bombero:
"Yeah, M , but would you recomend a gringo living there?"

In the places I mentioned above??? "Hell yeah", to me those are the best places to live, they are, vibrant yet peaceful, of course if you are a gringo that is not interested in getting to know Colombian culture a bit, then I would recommend Poblado.

Ilpdiver:
Doce de Octubre is a very cool barrio, Has so much to offer, of course is mostly low middle class of poor colombian, but is so very cool. It is sooo much alive, the view of the city from there is
very nice. My grandma used to take me there when I was little, I enjoyed it a lot. I don't know about Santo Domingo though, don't remember going there, for what I have heard It was worse than el Doce the Octubre, But I also have heard it' is gotten so much better!.

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lpdiver says on Jul 17, 2008, 12:19:

minini,

what strata would you say most of Doce de Octubre is? I would guess one or two. I never asked my in-laws.

ts

"cook some rice!"

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spigrimace says on Jul 17, 2008, 12:26:

In almost 4 years of running the Del Oeste Hamburguesas and Champions Sports bar in Belen, Ive never been kidnapped. ok its estrata 5 here. But I do domicilios during the week and the deliveries bring me to the lower and medium stratas like Belen Rincon, Belen Altavista, Belen Las Violetas, Belen San Bernardo, Belen Las Playas, Belen Rodeo, Belen Las Mercedes, Belen Rosales, etc. etc. etc. Anywhere in Colombia, you will have a target on your back. But fight back against the BS. Case in point: The metal security gates (Rejas) on my place broke and I needed them to be fixed quickly as someone would stumble on to the weak security link in no time. So I called a metal worker I have used in the past. He came, said it would cost $80000 and gave him $40000 up front for the screws, ball bearings and such. Although that is a no-no to give money up front, I figured Ive already used him with success a few times already so hes got some trust and I did have him sign a recibo de caja menor which I still have. He said hed come the next day. For 2 weeks, my employees called him and always got the "Ill be there later or tommorrow" routine. Into the 3rd week, I called and he said tommorrow hed come. I told him as a faithful client, he has lost my trust and I am not the type to accept this type of behavior and asked why he was looking for problems with me. I already knew he wouldnt show. The morning after the no-show, I went to his house at 7am and woke his ass up. He unfortunately lives on the 2nd floor of a house in Belen Las Mercedes and wouldnt come down and we talked thru his window. His wife wasnt too happy with the "escandalo" but I ranted and raved loudly and made sure the barrio heard how he is a thief and stole my money, is untrustworthy, etc. He shushed and shushed me and said hed come that day. I said Id wait and would take him in my car. He said he wouldnt be ready for a few hours. I told him thats it. its come today or the revenge will come and he picked the wrong person to steal from. Of course, he didnt come. A few days passed and I stewed. For those in Medellin the night of the MLB all-star game Medellin had a rediculous amount of constant super heavy rain. So seizing the opportunity, I dressed in all black with a cap, put on a pair of gloves, grabbeds a handful of softball sized rocks, slipped out as the game was only in like the 8th inning went to his house about 11pm. It was pouring so hard I knew no one would be on the street. I parked about 50 meters down and around a bend from his house. In the pouring rain, I did my best Roger Clemens but tossed more with the speed of Tim Wakefield and took out his two windows facing the street leaving them probably with a soaked apartment. I Ran back to my car, and got back to the restaurant meanwhile no one knew I left. (Ive seen too many Law & Order/CSI shows right?) Its been a few days and so far no retaliation from his part. He can use the $40000 to fix his own windows. Sayanora to him and I had someone else come and fix the gates. You have to show people you cannot be screwed with.

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dwmte7 says on Jul 17, 2008, 12:32:

well, i didn't read the whole thread, but i been there 19 years. and if there's any truth in your observations and those that i read, just about all are true. boredom sets in. culture, well there's plenty of that, symphony, ballet, sculpture, painting, spontaneous acting art and much more. plus music and dance and eating. i'm not a real bandeja paisa, guy, after so long. this many years, it too is old hat. that doesn't mean i don't like it...i do. it's healthy, tasty and nutritious. no faulting it. but i like old home stuff and french/italian as well and don't like being laid just to have it. prices. in my money prime all that was good. now, money prime is past and i'm on fixed income.

my family is in the south end of medallol...envigado and although we have a house there and used to have one in poblado, now, as often as i can, i'm outta town and off to llano grande where i can just hang out, not put up with the fricken colombian versian of pan handlers, that being those always wanting to milk the cow and anywhere around the city (s) contains those. not so in el campo.

go up country...el retiro, maranilla, don diego, all of llano grande, carmen de viboral, san antonio, rionegro and look around there. go to centro comercio gualanday in llano grande and get to know the folks there. they're great and will be very helpful. i know all of them for many years.

belen? GOD fricken forbid. home of DAS and the dark side of those folks. the whole west side of the valle is NO for me. poblado, sabaneta, parts of envigado if you needs the city.

but if you need breathing space...get outta dodge.

poblado useed to have dirt streets and was the best thing this side of sante fe new mexico about 50 years ago. now, all's gone--except for la casa de los cinco puertos--and replaced with parke lleras....what can i say about that place? all down hill.

good luck, but definitely get outta town and see colombia. go to those places i mentioned and the whole energy changes.

suerte, douglas

dwmte

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quantum says on Jul 17, 2008, 12:44:

Good for you man. Sometimes it does come to that. It came to that more than once for me in Costa Rica and escalated to gunplay. But I wore him down and put em on the ropes even if it did cost me. It was time to move to Panama after that, and with the exception of a few minor incidents it has been mil veces mas tranquilo. But still, u will always have this low standard of responsibility to deal with. Its just a prevalent fact of life here. I actually thought it was better in that regard in Colombia. But apparently not!

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lanegrapaisa says on Jul 17, 2008, 14:00:

Minina: I agree with you 100% , it seems the only barrio they sell foreigners is Poblado, don’t get me wrong, I love hanging out at lleras but I was born and raised in Laureles and I wouldn't change it for the world. Belen and Envigado are also great places and the prices are much better.
Ipdiver is right though, come down here, and rent first, get to know the city and see what you like. Don’t take our word for it.

Hasta el santo Papa tira peos!

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Lowell says on Jul 17, 2008, 14:22:

A fellow Latin person said this of his experiences.

"Ok.
> So that means only do what I say I am going to do maybe 10% of the
> time. Make promises, do not keep them and don't call back. Make
> defective products that my customers have to spend their time fixing
> or trying to get me to fix. Promise to be out to do it in two days.
> Change my mind and not call. Lie often and freely without
> responsability. Pass the buck constantly. Overcharge whenever I
> can. Make tons and tons of errors in my service to others and almost
> never take responsability for any of them. If I am caught stealing
> or lying, attack the person who caught me or say nothing at all. Be
> as ignorant as possible, and as stupid as I can. Avoid learning.
> Don't follow instructions. Lie some more. Screw up some more. Who
> cares about anything? Not here. What, me worry? Hell, no, that's
> their problem. Be as insincere as possible and cover it all up with
> a whole lot of politeness. Ok, I'll try to do that".

Alfred E. Newman. "What. Me Worry?"

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dwmte7 says on Jul 17, 2008, 15:46:

was that the guy that said, ".....give me a balcony and i'll be president".?

dwmte

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august says on Jul 17, 2008, 17:24:

Oh man, some sobering wisdom there from the elders. Confirms so many of my own thoughts - wow. Spigrimace, I love it.

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miamimike says on Jul 18, 2008, 01:37:

Renting could be the best option. When you decide its time to go, simply pack your BAGS AND LEAVE,,,

"Wait a minute. What did you just say? You're predicting $4-a-gallon gas? That's interesting. I hadn't heard that." -- Feb. 28, 2008 --George W. Bush, Washington, D.C.

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dwmte7 says on Jul 18, 2008, 04:13:

good story, spi...i had a run in with one of my furniture makers, an ebanista in amaga.

i paid him $400.00 us to buy black mahogony and produce some very fine, rare tables. i had done business with his nephews who had the adjacent businesses and had no problems.

well a month or so passed, i kept going up there---it's a long drive and kinda fucks a day---and each time he made the same excuses...i'm working on it, blah, blah, blah.

finally, i drove up one last time and as we drove onto their property and up to his taller, he points his finger at me and laughs. i got outta the car and walked up to him and told him, you think this shit is funny. i've driven up and down this mountain about 10 times for the last two months and i still don't even see the wood, much less the work.

i explained that the other members of his family, the nephews, had executed their contracts with dispatch and honor. but he had some dumb idea that he'ld screw the gringo. i reminded him that i had fronted him four hundred dollers and one way or another i was gonna get my money or my goods. at that he made some shit eatin grin and just chuckled.; at that point , i fumed. i told him, listen ass hole, you aint got enough money to fuck with me, but i damn sure have enough money to fuck with you.; if i don't have my property delivered to my house in poblado by 7:00 a.m next sunday--this was like a wednesday or thursday--i'm gonna burn your business down. got it?

i told him as i left, you're never gonna see me again. you've fucked any desire on my part to do business with even your honerable nephews.. so remember, sunday 7:00 a.m. or the torch man cometh.

when i got back in the car with my driver--a colombian guy that drove hak in n.y, for years and was fluent in english--he said, whew, douglas, you were serious with that prick. i told him, yeah, man, i guess colombian ways have rubbed off on me.

well, about 6:00 a.m on the following sunday, there was a banging on the big iron gates outside my property in poblado and it was this prick with my furniture.;

dwmte

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Brians says on Jul 18, 2008, 05:45:

dwmte I like your saying "You don't have the money to fuck with me but I have the money to fuck with you". I think that is a good one to remember that would scare you average Colombian prick. Have to remember that one and hopefully not have to use it.

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dwmte7 says on Jul 18, 2008, 07:13:

well, brians, given my nature, i was quite surprised at myself. however like i noted, the ways of colombia took presidence and i just told that chap exactly how it was gonna be. had i been a colombian from certain quarters in that era, that dude would be dead. a rip off for $400.00....shit, in those days, that would pop a dozen bad guys or enemies. i heard that a hit in those days, during the time when pablo was paying bounties on police and military, a sicario would carry out an 'off duty' 'hit' for $25.00. sure makes it look like life's cheap.

i think what surprised me most, was realizing i meant it.

dwmte

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august says on Jul 18, 2008, 07:16:

Ha! True enough, Brians. Dwmte, for future reference, how do you translate "to fuck with me" exactly?

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tasco66 says on Jul 18, 2008, 08:20:

Go for it!

Bravo, Presidente Uribe for the perfect operation!

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Saltador says on Jul 18, 2008, 09:35:

me estas jodiendo?

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eafit2005 says on Jul 31, 2008, 01:44:

Belen has some pretty scary parts where I wouldn`t live. But if its a residential living unit with security, you should be ok. Personally I would prever Envigado or Laureles or Calasanz....

"Wer heute immer das tut, was er gestern schon getan hat, der bleibt morgen, was er heute schon ist..."

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Ctg Bound says on Jul 31, 2008, 05:06:

eafit2005,

Where is Calasanz?

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