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Safety in Tierradentro & San Agustin

I am a colombian citizen traveling for the first time there since i was 6months old with my friend who is also colombian but a US citizen. We are going by ourselves on a one month tour through the whole country and plan on visiting the archaeological sites in tierradentro and san agustin. Is it a good idea for us to do so? How safe is it and can anyone offer any tips in case we come across any guerilla?

By caliche83 on Apr 15, 2005, 13:40 in Friendly Talkzone. AddThis Social Bookmark Button


ixent (☼Travelguide writer) says on Apr 15, 2005, 15:36:

Don't miss it! See my image gallery if you need inspiration.

Safety: I know an Australian and a Brit who were stopped on the San Agustin-Popayan road by FARC, their passports were inspected and they were allowed to go on their way. From what I understand having had numerous conversations with locals during my two visits to San Agustin, the guerilla are happy for foreigners to visit as tourism is an important source of revenue for the region. When I went to Tierradentro in 2001, I was told there were no guerilla in the area at all (but of course things can change...)

Anyway, it sounds like you both look and sound Colombian so you shouldn't stand out. My recommendation though to your friend who only has a US passport is to say that he has lost his cedula if stopped by guerilla. Although most foreigners are tolerated, US citizens are not particularly welcome.

Anyway, don't let me put you off! Stay at Casa de Nelly in San Agustin, owned by a French woman, its a 10 minute walk out of town and has a really beautiful peaceful garden (photo in image gallery). The best bus company to take is Taxis Verdes, they have a direct service from Bogota. I went with Copertran the first time I went and it was a really long journey because they stopped everywhere.

Don't miss the archaelogical park, go horse-riding (there's a guy called Pacho -- he's cool) and the nature in Tierradentro is really breathtaking.

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airetuPaL says on Apr 16, 2005, 06:05:

common sense Its very good to see Colombianos returning to their home country to visit, but I would suggest to both of you is to use your common sense. You and your Colomgringo friend should get your Colombian cedulas ASAP and try not to show your passports if you should encounter certain obstacles. Everytime I go to Colombia as a US citizen, I leave my US passport in the Safe box at the Hotel and I go about as a "Colombiano". Hay que andar limpios en esas partes del sur.

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carter says on Apr 16, 2005, 12:20:

It was safe when I was there in 2003 These places have a steady stream of foriegners visiting and San Agustin has a huge army presence making the town itself quite safe.

I wouldn't spend my holiday time in DAS trying to get a Cedula, Im australian and always leave my passport behind and just show my Australian drivers license or international student card when asked and tell them its my Australian Cedula. They wouldn't know the difference.

I also recommend horseriding with Pacho and Casa de Nelly.

You can just make Tierradentro in a day trip by bus from La Plata if you are worried about security, I planned on doing that but a few locals held me hostage in the corner store and forced me to drink Guardo with them, I then missed the bus and got introduced to every single girl in town over the age of 14. Before getting invited back to someones house for a meal and getting a bed for the night.

Now that I think about it my day in Tierradentro was one of the best days of my Colombian travels extremely friendly people.

let me know if you need any other advice

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juanalejo says on Apr 16, 2005, 14:21:

San Agustin Travelling from Bogotá to San Agustín via Neiva is no problem, lots of army. Tierra Adentro I would play by ear according to locals there as it is not as safe of an area. The road between Huila and Cauca is a twisty, not very good road that can have a lot of guerrilla influence. Some tourists seem to enjoy when they are adventurous but it is not for everyone.

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Jack Smith says on Apr 16, 2005, 14:35:

Your risk not mine! I go to BOG, CTG, ADZ, CLO, MDE, PEI, SMR, and other bigger cities because Avianca or Aerorepublica goes there but you will not see me taking any trips to the places you mention above. Yes, you might go and nothing will happen but what if that FARC group mentioned above decides they can make some $$$ off of you? Do a Google search on Colombian + Kidnappings + Foreignors + Americans Then read and remember why the State Department has a travel warning for Americans and Embassy personnel are restricted to Bogota travel only I believe?

Your choice but learning Spanish while on the run in Colombia's mountains with the FARC holding you captive doesn't sound like fun to me!

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juanalejo says on Apr 16, 2005, 15:14:

Contradictions Somebody that goes to Colombia and travel to many cities in the country when the American Embassy warns against any non essential travel to Colombia and then thinks accomodating parts of the warning to his own believes is rather a joke. If you are to believe that famous warning, I guess you should stay out of the country, if you are willing to come I think then the advice if those who really know the country is a little more believable.

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carter says on Apr 17, 2005, 12:03:

check that google US+Kidnappings You will find all of them were working in Colombia (gas companies etc) or military. None of them were travellers. You will also find that most of them were taken from these big cities that the above thinks is safe. He makes a good point that Embassy workings should be restricted to Bogota they are a target.

A group of travellers were kidnapped at the lost city 2 years ago and this is the only case I know of of travellers being kidnapped. Doesn't mean it won't happen and you should be careful but you would be extremely unlucky. I would advise Tierradentro as a day trip from La Plata. You could call Casa de Nelly first and ask about Road safety in the area before heading there.

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campobello64 says on Apr 19, 2005, 09:04:

safety about nex summer trip BOG Neiva Tierradentro San Agustin
We want to go in Colombia next summer. 4 People Italian quite good spanish speaking. 2 adults with 2 sons age 15 and 17.
We want to go from Bogota to Neiva (by air or bus) and, from there to Tierra dentro, then San Agustin and after come back to Neiva.
Are these zones safe? Probably we have a good friend of a friend of mine in San Agustin that can drive his private car for us from Neiva-TD-SA-Neiva. Is a good way to go?
What about the guerrilla influence? Is more dangerous to be stopped from regular Army or guerrilla? We don't have so much money for ransom or similar, we only have the credit card, is the risk of kidnapping so serious for a normal (no worker for enterprise, no colombian possident or businessman, only a traveller) people? Is better/no better travel with the sons?
Thanks for your answer, we are planning our vacations and we must confirm our air ticket within few days

campobello64

campobello64

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carter says on Apr 19, 2005, 10:33:

campobello64 Your friend of a friend could give you the best advice in this area. Tierradentro is a bit of a worry and with your trip being a little way off things can change. But a day trip with the family should be okay just check the latest news with your friend.

Your chances of getting kidnapped is greatly reduced if you are just a traveller.

A number of foriegners live and have businesses in San Agustin so this suggests the town is reasonably safe for foriegners.

getting stopped by the army will happen but is not a problem. The town itself is an army base with a huge Army population. Check with some of the foriegners living in San Agustin before heading to Tierradentro they should advise you on how safe it is at the time.

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kcrosman says on Apr 28, 2005, 16:24:

pasto to san agustin Does anyone know if it is possible and safe and easier to get to San Agustin from Pasto? After the Ecuador border crossing we were plannin on going straight to Popayan as long as we could get there by daylight, but if we can get to San Agustin from Pasto and then go to Popayan that would make more sense in terms of movement. Any experiences out there? Thanks

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Gator says on Apr 28, 2005, 19:34:

kcrosman & campobello64 there should be a bus to San Augustín.. but I doubt if the main buses from Pasto go there but I am not sure.. The park is outside the city which is really a pretty colonial town. It's been a while since I have been there, not really my cup of tea for a second visit. Park is spread out and it would likely take a full day to visit. Expect to see lots of military but you probalby do not have a lot to worry about. Too dangerous to be stopped by the army-where did you get that idea, unless, of course you are involved with FARC.

Since you are only travelers and not rich why bother kidnapping you? BUT,I really do not recommend travel in these area after dark.

If you are worried about FARC learn this:

"Pueden llevarse a nuestras mujeres, pero dejen nuestras tiquetes de avión."
You can have our women, but leave the plane tickets.

"Credidi pretio parvo emere et magno vendere tibi in animo fuisse!" .

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Lionheart says on Apr 28, 2005, 20:23:

please read other thread about Ecuador to Cali do not travel in that region now is all I can suggest.

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carter says on Apr 29, 2005, 09:17:

Im with Lionheart Although I said this place has been safe to travel in the past maybe now is not the best time. Do your Colombian travels and then at the end of trip look into it again and see what the situation is.

Lionheart isn't one of the paranoid people on this site so he's advice should be listen to.

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