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Personal Safety in Colombia

Disclaimer: Some of this may be helpful, and some not so helpful, but all of the following is couched in actual practice, not fantasy. It is intended to be a guide for travelers who might not realize the danger when it presents itself. The best advice, is to not act the tourist if you can help it, and move about in a confident and purposful way. Confused looking people seem to be wearing a target for the bad guys and women, so don´t act confused or thoughtless in your travels. This is not intended to scare you, but to give you some guidelines for avoiding some obvious traps.

In the Cities of Colombia: Don´t stand on corners looking lost. Try your best to figure out what you are going to do and where you are going to go before you leave the realative safety of your hotel or guest house. If you need to take a map with you, don´t open it on the street and appear to be in need of assistance. It is best to pop into a coffee shop to consult the map over a hot cup. Looking lost seems to scream out that you are vulnerable and is a very attractive situation for the badies.

Money: Don´t flash any money no matter how small the amount if you can help it. There is always some one willing to try to releive you of it.
Try to carry your money separately from your wallet, preferably in a shirt pocket under a sweater making it hard for a pickpocket to get at. If the shirt pocket buttons or zips closed so much the better. A clerk in a store will understand why it takes you forever to get your money out to pay for something.
Leave your wallet and any important documents like passports and credit cards etc. in a safe place other than on your person. If you want to keep ID on your person, get a xerox copy of what you want to carry, and have it laminated. It´s cheap, and you won´t run the risk of losing the real things. Wallets are easier to lift than you think. The pickpockets are masterful, and you may not even know it´s gone until it is too late.
One of the tricks used by pick pockets working in pairs, is that one will spit on your shirt sleeve. Another person, usually a non threatening person like a woman carrying a baby, will point out the spit to you. Instinctively you will reach to try to see how bad it is. By the time you put your hand back in your pocket to protect your wallet, it will be gone. The realization that you´ve been had by the woman with the baby will come a second or two too late. She will have faded into the crowd.
Using ATM´s to withdraw money: try not to use the machines that are open to the street. Try not to use the ones in quiet out of the way places either. Above all, try not to take more cash than you will need for any one day. There are stories of people being robbed as they retreive their money from the machine by the next guy in line behind you. While I´ve never actually seen this happen, I have talked to people to which it has happened. Don´t stand and count your withdrawal at the machine. If you are taking a large sum out, try to plan ahead and provide yourself with some sort of camoflage for the money. Bulging pockets are a dead giveaway that you are loaded when you come out of an ATM. My favorite trick is to carry a plastic shopping bag from a local supermarket chain, and keep a few dirty clothes in it which includes dirty socks, Slip the money into the socks out of sight. It looks like you are going to the laundry. While even this trick may not work every time, I, at least, have used it a number of times and have yet to lose any funds to thieves.
If you are carrying funds, try not to be skitish about it. The previous statment about appearing confident and thoughtful and aware of your surroundings applies to carrying money in spades. Unless you have been observed removing large sums from an ATM, you should be fine.

Nonuniformed police: In Colombia, the nonuniformed police are not allowed to talk to you in the capacity of the police. If you are approached by anyone identifying themselves as a policeman who is not in uniform, just tell them you have a doctor´s appointment for this terrible skin rash you have on your private parts. They will leave you alone. The scam however works something like this: you will be approached by a person pretending to be a tourist who is lost and looking for something or some place. He or she will usually show you a brochure for what they are looking for. The moment you open your mouth, they will ID your nationality, and the next question will be something about your country. A second person will appear out of the crowd and ask if you need help with translation or directions. Whatever. The next thing you know, the second person will pull out a wallet showing you an official looking ID card for the police. He will ask you if you have registered yet. That it is required by law that all foriegners need to register with the police. He will ask the two of you to go with him to the police station which is just in the next block or around the corner, or in the building just across the street. DON´T GO WITH HIM or them as the case may be. Just tell him you are busy and leave.
If they persist, tell them you want to see them discuss it with a uniformed officer. They won´t, and will leave you alone quickly. Also, even if you haven´t been accosted by them before, say something like “ HEY, don´t I know you guys? Believe me, if they think they have done you before, you are about to start screaming POLICE!!!! they fade like magic into the crowd.
If you can avoid dense crowds, you stand less of a chance of being robbed by pickpockets. But neither do you want to walk alone or even one or two down a dark street after say... ten or eleven P.M. You are asking for it. Heard a story from a reputable source here of a group of 6 people, a little drunk, walking down the street heading back to their hotel. A group of 6 or so Colombians managed to insinuate themselves into the group, and before the gringos knew what was happening, they all had knives at their throats and were giving up all they had. Fortunately no one was hurt, but a little money was lost. So don´t fool yourself into thinking a larger group will be protective. Again it was a case of a general lack of confidence and thoughtlessness that allowed this group to get robbed.
There are many people just looking for a hand out. While I leave it to you to make up your own mind to give or not to give, I would caution you not to pull out a wad of paper money in their presence. Many of these people are not stable, for what ever reason, and could see you as an oportunity to get their hands on your cash. They may also be one step above survival, and not care if they cut your throat to get what you have. It is best to pass by without giving, becasue you will not solve their problem with a coin or two, and it will lessen the chance of an incident. If I am in a giving mood, I give without being asked. I never give to those who ask, mainly because I´ve seen them become beligerent when refused or given less than they want. Also, if you are intent on giving coins, try to give at least $200 pesos. Anything less is so minor that it could be taken as an insult. To insult a half crazed glue sniffer, is asking for trouble.

Tolerance Zones: Are the areas in cities set aside by the government for the practice of the oldest profession. Most of the major cities in Colombia have them. It doesn´t mean prostitution doesn´t also take place outside the zones, but outside, the police can and do arrest the offending parties if they see it happening. To go into the zones is done at your own risk. Since I´ve never gone there for business (or pleasure), I can´t tell you what goes on from first hand info, but I can tell they are considered by most Colombianos I know to be high crime areas. Drugs and rip offs are prevelent, as are open robberies. There are no safe times of the day or night to visit these areas. They operate 24/7 365. These are the areas you hear about where the gringo is slipped a knockout in his drink, and wakes up nude in an alley wondering where and who he is and what day it´s gotten to be.
Aside from these obvious zones of sexual and ilicit activity, some areas of all the cities may be unsafe to venture into because of the have/have not dichotomy that exists in all the world´s cities. If you appear to have more, and are in one of these extremely poor neighborhoods, the chances are, if you get into trouble, there will be no help forthcoming. Best to ask about an area from locals you trust before venturing into it.
So in a nut shell, try to keep your wits about you, look and act confident, and go about your business as if you are certain of every step you take, and believe it or not you will most likely never be bothered.
If you do encounter a situation, hand over what you have without a struggle or complaint. It´s only money, and you will live to tell the tale. Resist, and you may find you have made a serious mistake.
There are some people who recomend you keep a give away wallet with a few thousand pesos in it and if you have them, an expired credit card or two to add a touch of authenticity. Do it if you want, but don´t expect the thief that as you at his mercy with his knife or pistol to take your word that it is all you have. Expect to have your clothes ripped open to expose pockets for anything else you might be hiding.
I could also provide you with a list of DON´Ts, like don´t wear an expensive watch, leave your diamond tiara at home, don´t flash gold chains, etc, but you already know all that . . . DON´T YOU?

Safety in the Countryside:
If you encounter a situation in the countryside, just do what ever those who have accosted you tell you to do. Any resistance is futile, unless you are Rambo incarnate. If you are, more power to you. But for the average traveler, the situation will be beyond your control, and resistance will get you nothing but animosity for the lack of respect you are showing your captors. That said, travel in the countryside in Colombia is not nearly so dangerous as we have been led to believe. Beyond the obvious of checking with athorities or other knowledgable people about the area you wish to travel to or through, there is not much else you can do. A young South African woman reciently traveled through Colombia on her bike, and told me she was stopped several times by groups of men in uniform. She could never tell if they were official police, military, or guerillas, since none of them would actually identify themselves. All the groups that stopped her examined her passport, her visa, and then just asked her questions about her trip, before letting her continue. She said she had been frightened by the first stop, but quickly realized that it was out of her control, and just did as they asked after that. She´s safely back in South Africa now, telling her adventure stories to her family and friends and planning her next bike trip.
You hear all sorts of warnings about bus travel in Colombia being dangerous. I would say, that like anything, it could have its dangers, but given the recient spate of accidents that are more likely to happen on a bus, rather than being robbed by the FARC, or some other group of disidents, is what makes most bus trips dangerous. Colombians are taking their roads back. Weekends see the highways out of the cities at capacity levels of traffic. So how many of them never make it home. If it´s a big number missing every weekend, then the Government is keeping a tight lid on it. I have several friends who travel out of the city (Bogotá) nearly every weekend, and have for several years now without incident, they maintain that it is totally safe now. Of course there is always the chance you were born under an unlucky sign and the guerillas get you. As most of the embassies will tell you, if you get into trouble, don´t call them. They don´t deal with terrorists. The solution to the situation is as stated above—cooperate, and hopefully they will let you go quickly. Become a hassle, and who knows what will happen.
As a tourist traveler, you are politically nil, therefore worth next to nothing on their agenda. However, if you work for one of the big internationals doing business here, you need to move about with more caution. Those people have been and will continue to be targets of opportunity for the disidents, because the big companies, have in the past, paid the ransomes demanded.
I don´t believe scaring people is a positive point of view. I do believe being prepared, as the Boy Scout´s moto says, is the best solution. So if any of this information is helpful to you, pass it on to others to whom it may be of help. The more that know the truth about travel in Colombia, the more everyone will benifit from this beautiful and much maligned country.
Best,
LaloG

By LaloG on Jan 19, 2005, 10:38 in Friendly Talkzone.

JamieJ says on Jan 19, 2005, 11:00:

Thanks for the many good tips.

Jamie
Engage The Exotic - Colombian Women

Jamie

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fill says on Jan 19, 2005, 11:09:

good one fill

fill

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Lionheart says on Jan 19, 2005, 11:23:

Thank you LaloG This list is an excellent summary of precautions and warnings without exaggeration. Most of it is plain common sense (but it ain't common).

I have often seen warnings about ATMs. I often wondered why people go to an ATM alone when they intend to withdraw large amounts of money. Normally this is planned, so why not go there with some friends and family who can keep an eye on your surroundings?

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miamimike says on Jan 19, 2005, 11:32:

Cititbank ATMs I use one in Bogota and its within the bank--no prying eyes and they have an armed guard at the outside door. Great safe system.

No hay Peor Ciego que el que no quiere Ver o Sordo que el que no quiera Oir--Soy Yo, Sarah Palin, Wasilla Alaska.

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Gomezman5 says on Jan 19, 2005, 11:40:

Hey LaloG Good Job -- Lots of thought !! Great thread LaloG !!! We can't stop some of the insanity that happens in Colombia, but it's reccomendations like this that will clearly minimize the tourists/new comers chance of being victimized.

It's obvious you put a lot of time and thought into this discussion. I just might make a copy for myself as a personel reminder for when I get a little too "careless" . I hope Peter see's this. I see Lionheart has, and that's good too.

G5

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Peter Miami says on Jan 19, 2005, 12:12:

Very good thank you for your insight.

Peter Miami

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fill says on Jan 19, 2005, 12:56:

lalog I too would like to copy this and share with others....ok with you?

fill

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YEP says on Jan 19, 2005, 13:44:

Well .... this is what makes a forum good ;-)
Valuable information pinned out and top gun (Guide quality).

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Just another scandinavian getting ready to explore South America

------------------------------------------------------------------- Just another scandinavian getting ready to explore South America

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juanalejo says on Jan 19, 2005, 14:40:

Very Good Lalo, very good summary of the situation in Colombia. Objective and especially designed to encourage the usage of common sense that every traveller should always have, not only here but any where in the world.

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LaloG says on Jan 19, 2005, 14:45:

Thank you all for the positive feedback. I understand Peter is going to use this post as the basis for a guide on PBH on personal safety in Colombia, but really the advice applies in any city in the world. The intent was to get these thoughts out there for all to use or pass on. Please feel free.

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goosekirk says on Jan 19, 2005, 16:25:

I would add On the street - walk fast and with the confidence that you have an important place to be, and soon. If you have to stop and lollygag in a crowded area, be observant and keep an eye on the crowd around you. If you see someone acting suspiciously in your direction, stare at them. It's probably debatable if that's good advice in general - it really depends on the situation. You don't want to get into a staring contest with a crazy homeless guy. But the few times I've had the feeling I was being sized up for something, staring at least didn't cause any trouble, and bad guys or no, they faded away.

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dwmte says on Jan 19, 2005, 17:32:

very nice, informed post........ any traveler, anywhere can use these common sensical suggestions and guidelines.

thank you

dwm

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santiBOG says on Jan 19, 2005, 19:34:

a title for LaloG's post: "Personal Safety for Dummies who lack common sense"

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kernow62 says on Jan 19, 2005, 20:34:

Very good post. I like to take photographs but I was a bit apprehensive of just whipping the camera out and snapping away. I use a cheap digital and if it was stolen it wouldn't be such a big deal except I would lose the photos and the ability to take further photos of my trip. To draw less attention to myself I turn off the flash unless it is needed (many cameras default to always having the flash on), I also frame the photo in my mind before pulling the camera out and quickly snapping the shot. Some digital cameras are painfully slow to fire up and take the first shot so if buying a camera think about this. Some older 2nd generation Kodak digitals take very clear photos and are fat to use because they do not focus, everything is in focus, they also look more like a cheap camera. Some sites will recommend a camera strap with a built in steel cable so that they cannot be cut from your neck, I have one that looks like a regular camera strap but I did not take it to Colombia, I figured if someone wants the camera and has a knife then they can have it. It would come in handy as a garotte though.

A.C. Blessing and Goosekirk both took photos that I probably would have not ventured to take, more power to them they have beautiful photos and I missed many I perhaps should have taken. Of course now I have to return to take all those photos I missed.

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kernow62 says on Jan 19, 2005, 20:39:

One other thought.

Does a copy of a passport officially work for ID if asked to present one, or should it be notarized copy?

If the latter; what is the accepted form of notarization and where can it be obtained?

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caslug says on Jan 19, 2005, 20:46:

regula copy of passport should be OK. I'm not sure about if it's LEGALLY OK, but everyone does. I figure if the cops really need to see it, then they can come with me back to the hotel. The only time i recall needing my passport was changing USD to COL Peso, the money changer in Cali all require passport not copy.

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Lionheart says on Jan 19, 2005, 20:48:

Document copies A plain photo copy is enough for starters, that will keep you from getting arrested. The police will understand your precautions and often will be satisfied with the copy. They might join you to check the originals, wherever they are, or ask you to stop by the police station for verification. I have never heard that notarized copies were needed.

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goosekirk says on Jan 19, 2005, 21:20:

Photos Kernow's got good points on taking photos. I use a Fuji 610, which is a good camera for being a small, pocketable point-and-shoot. In Bogota, it's easy to wear a big sweater with long sleeves, and I can practically palm the camera so it isn't very noticeable, while still keeping it ready in my hand. Although a more professional camera would give me better results, it would also be far more conspicuous. I've been asked whether or not a big SLR would be safe to carry around, and I've said yes, I would do it... but in terms of safety, anywhere in a big city, there's no doubt your odds are better with a smaller camera. Maybe it's obvious, but some of the latest small cameras are really quite good, and I'd recommend people pick one up instead of hauling around some big, obviously valuable piece of gear.

And I always, always, always use double loops of durable elastic cord for a camera strap, and they're always wrapped around my wrist when my camera is out. It not only prevents someone from snatching the camera out of my hand, it also prevents my butterfingers from dropping it!

Come to think of it, I'd do the same thing if I had a big camera. I can't imagine wearing one around my neck with a standard (or steel) strap... you might as well advertise that you're a tourist and an easy mark. I'd probably get a messenger bag for storage and otherwise keep the camera in hand, with a cord wrapped around my wrist.

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kernow62 says on Jan 19, 2005, 22:45:

Good points, I do wear my camera around my neck, also a Fuji digital the same size as the 610, but wear it under my clothes. I also tend to try to stand in a doorway or back against a wall. Firstly for a little added security and secondly for the stability it lends to the camera. It is also nice to go sightseeing with another couple so that you can ask them to take pictures of you and your partner for you and vice versa. We didn't do so, consequently the photos are of my wife or myself, rarely the two of us. I have had other couples use the camera to take a photo of us but I was very careful as to choose other tourists, Colombians.

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Crazy4Cali says on Jan 20, 2005, 06:47:

I guess I was lucky... I carried my big, fat Nikon digital SLR around downtown Bogota. I do keep it in a non-camera-bag fanny pack worn on my front. Mi colombiana called it my "baby" (mi niño) since it made me look 8 months pregnant under my jacket.

I'm used to people not wanting their picture taken so I try to be obvious about it. If they don't see me take their picture then they are either clueless or don't care. Either way I take that as meaning it's OK. If they give me that unmistakable "don't take my picture" look, then I just smile and move on. Most people are flattered to have their photo taken, you just have to be open about it. Slinking around in the shadows trying to be discreet will usually call MORE attention to you unless you do it very well (and most people don't).

But camera or not, I don't think I could have passed as anything but a gringo tourist with my blond hair and ropa gringa.

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Tinto (Moderator) (Trustee board) says on Jan 20, 2005, 09:15:

And even this is flexible I used my drivers license to change money at a casa de cambio in Unicentro in Bogota.

I wanted access to health care, housing and education, but, no, I get potholes, trash and silicone tits instead. -Desi.

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Crazy4Cali says on Jan 20, 2005, 09:18:

Don't forget condoms... ...since we're talking "personal" safety. They, too, can save your life.

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kernow62 says on Jan 20, 2005, 12:58:

So Crazy4cali, how about sharing a few photos with your friends on the forum. I for one can't get enough of photographs from Colombia, especially Bogotá.

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Crazy4Cali says on Jan 20, 2005, 13:00:

I tried... ... to post photos from my last trip to Bogotá but got all tangled up in the interface and could never find them again. (which is pretty embarrasing from a person who makes his living in the computer industry...)

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kernow62 says on Jan 20, 2005, 13:25:

I know what you mean, I tried to post a few more of mine since the the format of the forum changed and have been unable to.

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jchicaa2 says on Jun 21, 2005, 20:25:

Puerto Tejada Hi, I am new to this forum. I am probably going to be going to Puerto Tejado, Cauca soon with my husband (who is from there) to meet his family. Our hope is to bring his daughter home with us to Michigan. I am generally not scared too easily but I have to admit that I am nervous about this one. I have heard lots of horror stories about this area. He has told me that I shouldn't go anywhere without him because I am very obviously not from the area and very obviously una blanca de EEUU.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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fosth says on Jun 22, 2005, 01:37:

Great post I think LaloG has scripted a great post, especially for first time travellers to Colombia. I adhered by many of the same precautions and was safe living in La Candelaria for 2 months.

With what he say's about 'Tolerance Zones' i would say is true. My bus home from uni used to travel along Carrera 10 close to Calle 19 on of these zones and seemed seedy even in the day, when i got a taxi back from the bus terminus the driver locked all the door when we stopped at the lights in this area. "Muchos Ladrones!!" that was early on a sunday morning. Not an area i'd venture to in the evening!!
I found travelling through the countryside on buses realtivly safe. I travelled back to BOG from Medellin on a night bus. It was stopped numerous times by different groups but didn't feel vaulnerable at any time.

Also got to agree with Kernow about photos. goosekirk's are amazing. It never ceases to amaze me how i can keep looking at photos of Colombia without getting bored. Make the day a work go quicker and keeps me dreaming!!! Cheers for sharing them goosekirk

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burrorojo says on Aug 19, 2005, 02:29:

Safety I understand what puerto tejada is saying.
When I was in Colombia I regularly took the yellow street taxis around the cities (like most tourists I did not have my own transport) and I never ran into any trouble in 8 months there. Most Colombian taxi drivers are really friendly and keen to learn more about where you're from etc, or if not that, then at least just plain pleasant like most Colombians.
HOWEVER, although I did this and would keep doing this if I returned, if you want to be ULTRA SECURE, always take registered taxis, not just the regular ones off the street like I did, as kidnappings do occur. I read a couple of articles in the newspapers about this when I was there and as far as I'm concerned they DO happen. I'm not sure how big this risk actually is, and I don't consider it large enough to stop my practice of hailing any old taxi, as it doesn't really bother me too much, but for the ultra cautious traveller who wants that added safety then yeah, only go with registered taxis...

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jmayuk says on Feb 22, 2006, 07:01:

common sense? Though I have travelled throughout North and Central America, North Africa and Europe, I am making my first trip to Colombia in June 2006 (hooray!) and from reading all of the security suggestions, it sounds suspiciously like common sense and the type of precautions that you should take on any street in any city. As a point of reference, I have seen far more crime on the street of London than I ever did in the year and a half that I lived in Mexico City. Food for thought...

donde comen dos, se comen tres...

donde comen dos, se comen tres...

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Isaac Ruez says on May 29, 2007, 15:43:

Thank u for very helpful info. Im taking my first trip to Colombia and Im real excited. And that info helped with some of the questions I had.

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