PBH / Colombia / Start Forums▼ (active) Travelguide Cheap hostels Pictures

Observations from recent 20 day trip

I just got back yesterday from a 20 day trip to Colombia which took me to Bogota, Medellin, Cartagena and San Andres. The following are just some impressions as they occur to me :

In the rainy season or low season, things are slow during the week in any city of Colombia - even Cartagena. So be careful as to when you go. When it's low season for traveling, not even the locals go out much during the week - just weekends. (Same applies to Rio de Janeiro, as I was there a month ago). Contrary to popular belief, Colombians and Brazilians work very hard and don't just party all the time.

In Bogota, you'll find more options, but even there what I said above applies. On Sundays-Tuesdays even Bogota has few options for nightlife during low season. During these days, Cartagena was totally dead, except for "Tu Candela" which is a small little club with a 40% mix of prostitutes and the rest tourists (male and female) - but fun for everyone in a relaxed way. It's just how it is in Cartagena. Bogota itself is beautiful city, IMHO. The whole northern part and Calendaria. The outlying areas almost match Medellin's beautiful outlying areas. Both areas around Bogota and Medellin are dotted with finca's - or weekend country homes. Even Bogota's financial district and center are worth a visit. The energy there is like NY City to me. Very organized, active and busy. The transmilenio has done wonders.

During the high season or when a particular city has a an event like in Cali or Medellin, Colombia comes alive and in places like Cartagena, a party will practically hit you on the head (June/July and December and also semama santa - spring break). In Cartagena, on a weekend don't miss going to Babar, not just to Mr. Babilla if you want to party with locals, as Mr. Babilla is full of tourists though not exclusively. I did meet two nice Ecuadorian girls from Quito there though.......even though it was low season.

But even in low season during the week there are always a few select small spots that are open. On Wednesdays in Bogota, it's "El Citio" in Parque 93 or Vitro's (forgot the street) - but "EL Citio" is way better anyway - great Baranquilla band plays. I think there are some places in the Calendaria district as well, but didn't go there for nightlife. Beautiful area though. From Thursday-Sat on there are a ton of places all over in Bogota. Sun-Tues not much anywhere.

San Andres is basically for water sports and the beach. They do have a high season and there I guess the party scene is better, but I didn't party there at all. I was there Sun-Thurs, so no disco's open, especially in the low season that it is. But I did do scuba and snorkeling, fantastic for that. The water colors are beautiful even from the beach. A true tropical experience with great seafood everywhere and the locals are very friendly. Plenty of places to dive and great undisturbed corals even in very shallow waters and also great wall dives. I saw higher class tourists here than in say, Cartagena. No bald overweight older men picking up........never mind, you get the picture. FYI, I heard that Copa is flying from Miami to San Andres in a few months (or was it Continental?).

Medellin is beautiful in certain areas and in the surrounding areas above the city in el Oriente or was it Occidente - anyway the outlying areas. The central areas of Medellin are as ugly as any other city with traffic, open shops, etc...(In this regard, Bogota is beautiful and very well organized).....really bad. but the outlying areas and Poblado and Las Palmas, etc. are stunning. The colors and topography remind me of Hawaii. THe people though are very friendly almost anywhere you go and well dress better than in other cities. Combine the Medellin "como un canto" accent with their good taste in clothes (perhaps because Medellin has a large garment industry?) and their good looks and you see why the girls of Medellin are considered the prettiest. I'd have to agree........though I haven't been to Cali and several Bogotan's have told me that along the Pacific coast towns, there are Barbie like girls of African decent......Anyway, Medellin is beautiful in several ways. It's my kind of place. But that's just me. Elmo no doubt prefers other places.........Only Aires and Satena fly into the city airport, all others fly into Rio Negro - 45 minute cab ride from Medellin.

Bogota has changes a lot over the past years and if you haven't been there for at least 5 years you won't believe it. And they're still building like there's no tomorrow. That actually goes for all cities I visited. Colombia must be undergoing a construction boom right now. What wonders a little security under Uribe can do to the economy. Though don't be fooled as just as I was waiting at the airport for my flight out, there was a long segment about the displaced persons from a particular town that had arrived in Bogota that night and where demanding the government fight back and retake their town from the FARC. Desplazados either move out of their towns or are killed. But everyone I talked to agrees that the situation is far improved and getting better.

CHeck the individual airlines for fares and schedules before going, and don't forget Aires and Satena - not just Avianca and Aerorepublica for traveling within Colombia. I think it's probably cheaper to just buy individual tickets than the passes I've been reading about. Especially if you buy in advance, each segment only costs about 70-80 bucks anyway. When planning an outbound connection, allow for at least 3 hours in Bogota because of the security. If you're wanted by Interpol anywhere in the world, you'll be caught leaving Colombia as they run everyone through the Interpol database. Something we in the US can learn from.......

I really wouldn't have had 10% of the fun if I didn't speak fluent Spanish, so my report here really must be read with that in mind. If you don't speak Spanish at all, it'll be a different experience as few speak English, and certainly not the younger crowd. I also had my Mom around a lot as I was showing her (and myself) the new Colombia, so that really limited my being able to just head out a lot of times.

In all, I'll be back for sure.

By tommytoyz on Apr 26, 2005, 14:49 in Friendly Talkzone.

VanMan says on Apr 26, 2005, 15:22:

i agree My spanish was crappy but i had TONS of fun. Didn't hurt I had a couple of people that did speak english. I agree about Medellin. If the security increases this will be a great place for commercial and industry and foreign investment.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

sandramoreno80 says on Apr 26, 2005, 16:04:

Like in any country Colombia has alot of tourist movement during the school holidays, when families go out and travel. Also during Easter, Puentes (bank holidays). Colombia has two main different school calenders (even though there is a third) so some schools end in June and others end in November, not returning until August/Spetember and Jan/Feb.

It has become really popular to travel around the country again, Colombians have always enjoyed road trips, taking the family along in several cars. The agroturismo scene is quite strong, this is concentrated in the coffee growing area.

San Andres, well as you said it is not really known for its nightlife, but the beaches are great.

I can not recommend enough to all those future travellers who wish to fly some parts, get your itinaries done quick and book the flights when you first arrive, if you have contacts in Colombia, get them to book it for you. Discounts can be found.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

elmodefoque says on Apr 26, 2005, 16:09:

my young wife just left to work out, she want's to looks good so i don't dump her ass. i only got a s couple hours on line, before she gets back.
hey tommy, you just mentioned my all time favorite club in cartagena "tu Candela" . i always go upstairs. do you mean that those young hot girls smiling with me accross the club were hookers and not interested in me because i'm a handsome old goat?

I'll get there, when I get there!

0 funny, 0 helpful.

dwmte says on Apr 26, 2005, 16:13:

tommy... very nice travelog and very interesting. thanks for sharing with us.

dw

0 funny, 0 helpful.

RUV says on Apr 26, 2005, 17:26:

Thanks for Sharing Thanks for sharing this information.

Elmodefuque, do you work out? Are you afraid she might dump you? Lot's of male donkeys in New Jersey / New York. Keep it up and you will be sleeping on the sofa.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

tommytoyz says on Apr 26, 2005, 18:52:

Tu Candela Elmo,
Hell, you'd know better than anyone if they were hookers and with "Tu Candela" being your favorite (and the only decent option in low season during the week), maybe you found some young things with a burrow fetish........though when I was there 3 tourists from Cali practically pulled me onto the dance floor (Cartagena has a lot of Colombian tourists).....Upstairs, yep......

Forgot to mention Andes Carnes Res in Chia outside Bogota - fantastic place. Nothing like it anywhere. If you're in Bogot, you really must also party there at least once. Take someone with you, everyone there has a total blast....

0 funny, 0 helpful.

elmodefoque says on Apr 27, 2005, 08:23:

Tommy, next time you gotto Cartagena, ask any taxi driver to give you “la vuelta del zoologico” all the whore establishments have names like “la iguana” “pantera” “bicho loco” etc. most are located en la Avenida Pedor de Heredia. Don’t start shitting bricks after he begins driving away from your familiar surroundings and you look back to see the safe bright lights of Boca Grande disappear in the distance and are now in some dark unknown dingy neighborhood at 2 am. Though the surroundings of those places are run down and plain ol scary looking most of the bars are not bad, lots of security. Be ready to be search from head to toe, and soldiers are always stationed right outside. You’ll be blown away at the quality of the girls; cahcacas from Medellin are highly sought after by the cut throat coked-up drunken corroncho clientele.

Sometimes I feel I need to apologize to all. Most of the information coming from me is usually from the other side of town, the ugly side, but that’s all I know. I don’t know from el Museo de Oro if it landed on top of my head or some salt cathedral or some choo choo train (as CX once described it)or metro in Medellin
I also need to apologize for my crude ways. I was born in utter poverty from a long family history of corronchos, then I was brought to live in NYC at a young age. NYC is not exactly the hub of civilization, with very polite, cultured, soft spoken, well manner people. Anyway you look at it, I’m screwed.

I'll get there, when I get there!

0 funny, 0 helpful.

utopiacowboy says on Apr 27, 2005, 13:07:

Elmo, you're the freaking voice of sanity on this site. Scary, I know, but true.

Disclaimer: any comment I make is inane and is not to be taken seriously, and is so patently ridiculous that no one should take it seriously, even as an insult.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Neonovo says on Apr 27, 2005, 15:41:

No apologies needed on my account... The ugly side of town is not on either side of the tracks; it's deep in the heart of those colombian gvt sicarios who still use assassination as a tool of political expediency, eventhough they live in their swanky villas, and drive those puke-green military-issued Mercedes.
I know there are those on this site who are horrified that anyone should think that such things are possible, but there is much evidence demonstrating that hideous practice is alive and well, as in this report which among other things, states..."At least one witness was killed during the criminal investigations (of the military-sicarios) and several prosecutors were forced to leave the country."
Now that, Elmo, is what I call the CRUDE WAY. Your slant on life, your prespective on the details of the daily grind, is probably one of the richest visions any Colombo-Americano in this site is currently sharing.

Paz
Neonovo

0 funny, 0 helpful.

mzzmerized says on Apr 27, 2005, 17:28:

The No-Nightlife Conundrum What lots of people tend to forget when they go to Colombian cities is that these are not resort destinations. People work, they have lives, they are not partying 24/7. Just like back home, people go out on weekends. YOU may be on holiday and looking for action on a Tuesday night, but the Bogotanos, Calenos, etc. all have to go to work the next day.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

sieteinfantes says on Sep 21, 2005, 17:57:

Great Feedback Fastastic expression gentlemen, I'm taken aback about how many people do know there shit down there. I'm going down after 2 years off, I spent 5 years in Cartagena and 2 in Bogota, and lived like a king, I think the only think I never did was "hacer la vuelta del zoologico", but yes, I did enjoy the festivities from time to time though I am quite intrigued with my trip to Colombia in November for a month. I never made it to Medellin and am going to Bogota for 7 days and Cartagena for 15, and I think that missing Las Paisas sera un gran pecado. I live in Miami, so it's not like its' far away, but I have heard stories. I proved the Cali story to be "false" and and actually went there with my girlfriend a few years ago, she said that the all the Calenas, the hotties, now live in Bogota. However, Cartagena take out may get old. I though about buying Tu Cadela four years ago, though I think its not as good as back in 97 and 98, it was AWESOME. Its still great, but when the balcony was put into glass, it losts a lot of its abiance, and you still can't breath. So how about downstairs?
Later boys, I've got planning to do

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Rubiazo says on Sep 21, 2005, 19:18:

Its changed a lot 20 years ago you could go to ANY North American OR South American city with a decent size and find packed nightclubs at 2am any day of the week. Such a shame how things have changed. The thing is, in big cities there are the 9-5 crowd who go out on the weekends and then there are the freaks who fill the bars on the other nights. Now it seems all the freaks are in jail and all the clubs are closing. Note that if a place can only do good business 2 days out of 7 it still has to pay its rent etc for the whole month. A lot of these places days are numbered!

BTW El SITIO is also open on Tuesday, see my other thread. In Rio, Estacio Rio has live pagode from midnight till sunrise every day of the week. I was in heaven, dancing my ass off at 5am on a tuesday night like the freak I am!!

0 funny, 0 helpful.

toneloc24 says on Sep 21, 2005, 21:10:

Great observations Tommy and thx for sharing.

The downstairs of Tu Candelas is a lot of fun as well. More space to dance, breathe, and drink once you made your selection upstairs. LOL!!!

"PBH is dead!!!!"

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Crazy Eagle says on Sep 22, 2005, 14:21:

you rock Elmo! Maybe a little crude sometimes (just a teeny bit?) but always witty and insightful and entertaining. Shine on you crazy diamond.

"The natural rythmm of life is routine punctuated by orgy." Aldous Huxley

"The natural rhythm of life is routine punctuated by orgy" Aldous Huxley

0 funny, 0 helpful.