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Medellin travel guide

(This is an "approved guide", which means that we think it is quite accurate and up to date. Written December 2006.)

Medellin (elevation 1540 m, population 2.5 million, temp 23 degrees Celcius) is a modern city with beautiful spring weather all year long, and very friendly people. The city isn't particularly pretty (it's mostly modern and busy), but the surrounding area is very beautiful (greener than Bogota) and not much explored. Paisas (the people from Antioquia, the area around Medellin) are very friendly and open (shrewd businesspeople, too).

In the 80s, when Pablo Escobar was running the town, Medellin was rather dangerous, but things have changed and now it's one of the safest cities in South America.

Many travelers stay longer than planned, even though Medellin doesn't have any major tourist attractions. You can take Spanish courses, although not as cheap or geared to travelers as in, say, Quito.

For hostels and hotels, see our Medellin - Places to Stay guide.

General orientation.

Medellin lies in a valley with a microclimate - hence the perfect weather.

This map shows the metro and some major roads. La Oriental connects El Centro (the center, a busy and old area) with El Poblado (a modern area where La Zona Rosa lies). Most travelers stay either in the Center or in the Poblado area.

Medellin is a big city, and there's more to it than just El Poblado. Once you start discovering the city, you'll find there are a lot of fun places to discover, eat and party, but you have to kind of know where to go. I am dividing this guide in different areas.

El Poblado

El Poblado is a popular area with travelers - a few of the best hostels are located here. It's relatively rich, and there are a lot of places to eat and drink. The main area of interest is quite small and walkable.

(This map is oriented differently than the one above.)

Parque Lleras (the so-called "Zona Rosa") is surrounded with flashy bars and discos, and full of rich people. Parque Poblado (3 blocks away) is where the more alternative scene hangs out in El Poblado and drinks cheap beers and aguardiente. On La Diez (10th) are some more bars and discos.

There's really no point in listing all the places to eat and drink here, just walk around and see what tickles your fancy. It's a small area.

Berlin (Calle 10 No 41 - 64), on Calle 10, is the default hangout bar for foreigners. It's quite nice actually, Medellin doesn't have as many bar/cafe style places as Bogota, so this is where people go. It has pool tables, beers, the usual.

There are a lot more places on Calle 10, Blue is popular for dancing.

You won't go hungry or thirsty here, there are plenty of places to eat in El Poblado. One of the few standout restaurants that's not a bland nor expensive place is Nuqui (http://www.nuqui.com, Carrera 42 No 10 - 49, 1 block from Parque Poblado), a coastal restaurant with an nice interior. The same restaurant has 2 more branches, one in the center (Calle 55 No 45 - 83, tel 512 96 94) and one in Llano Grande. The main attraction is fish. Lunch specials are pretty affordable.

Because after a while you can get bored of Colombian food, we tried out ThaiCo, in the Parque Lleras, a thai place. They have a special deal where you get 3 coctails for the price of 1, and everyone we saw was drinking, not eating. That should have given it away. The food was bland and dissapointing, even at lowered Colombian standards. I ordered a supposedly "spicy" curry, I couldn't even taste anything remotely Thai. Avoid the food.

There is also a Sushi place in Parque Lleras called Sushi Togo, which is much better. For great sushi and grand views, take a taxi to the Tesoro mall, there's a great sushi place there with fantastic views, a good place to take a date.

To get to Poblado from the center just take the bus at the corner of the Exito marked "Poblado".

Areas in the Center.

There are a few interesting areas, all within walking distance, in the center of Medellin. The area is very busy with traffic and people, and old but not colonial like for example Bogota's Candelaria area.

This map of the center shows most of the interesting areas: Parque de Bolivar, Plazoleta de las Esculturas, Parque Berrio and El Guanabano.

El Guanabano.

Strangely neglected in the travel guides, this small area in the center is one of the bohemian hearts of Medellin. There are a bunch of cafes that double as lunchtime restaurants, and there is the very tiny Guanabano park where everyone just hangs out and smokes. You'll easily recognize the tiny park because of the iron statues of humans. It's a nice bohemian mix of streetlife with some more upscale-ish cafes.

This is a great area to have lunch, and a great area to have some beers at night.

El Estabon Prendido (239 34 00) is one of the few great salsa places in Medellin. It is great fun and plays good music. During lunch, it's also a popular lunch restaurant. Next door is Donde Eduard (Cl 53 No 42 - 63), which is also a popular lunchtime restaurant.

There are a few small cafes (they also serve food) right on the park that are quite good, mainly open at night.

Amor y Sabos has lunch for 5000 pesos and is a cafe at night too.

El Acontista is a more upscale cafe and restaurant across the road from Amor y Sabos. Lunch is 8000 pesos.

The Teatro Tobon is a large, classic theatre in the center. Tickets are between 30000 and 70000 pesos, and they tend to show classic ballet and theater shows.

Mary Cuba is a salsa & son bar, 1 block from el guanabano.

Delicias del Tolima has decent lechona (an entire fried pig), a specialty from Teloma, for 5500 pesos, and good tamales too.

Prado Centro.

Prado Centro is a hilly residencial neighbourhood with some beautiful houses and a few theaters, right next to the center. It's a nice area for an afternoon discovery walk. You could walk all the way to the Universidad de Antioquia (at metro stop Universitario), and take a metro back. The interesting Medellin cemetary is at metrostop Hospital, on the way. 

Many houses in Prado Centro are really large and were built in the 1920s, 1940s when that part of the city was where the rich people lived. These days, this area isn't rich at all, but there are still great houses, lots of flowers and you'll probably stumble upon a few theaters or dance schools while walking around. Ask for "Prado Centro" when asking directions.

El Centro: around Parque Bolivar.

A short walk from El Guanabano, Parque Bolivar is kinda run-down but there's a nice church to visit and some good restaurants. On Sundays there's sometimes live classical music in the park, and the first Saturday of every month there's a crafts market called San Alejo. At night this area is not always the safest, although ok if you keep your eyes open.

The absolute best place to eat in Medellin perhaps, Mango Maduro is a tiny bohemian restaurant that's kind of hard to find, but once you've found it once you won't forget where it is. You have to walk up some stairs to find it, there's a sign but it's hard to see. It's next door to "Los Toldos" (a restaurant) if you're having trouble. It has 9 small tables and friendly service. It's only open for lunch, and there's only 1 set lunch to choose from. The food is very good, a different take on some Colombian classic every day for less than 5500 pesos (US$ 2.5).

The cheapest place to eat in the center continues to be La Estancia, in the Parque Bolivar. It's a big space with tables, you just line up and eat a lunch meal for 2600 pesos (US$ 1.3). It's not fancy (at all), but it's good for a certain kind of people watching.

There's another very cheap lunch option in a hole in the wall place at the parqueadero in the Parque Bolivar. I don't think it has a name, lunch is 4000 pesos (US$ 1.5).

Salon Versalles (in Pasaje Junin) is famous for its argentian empenadas (the owner is Argentinian) and always full for lunch, although the food is pretty average. It's better as a cafe in the afternoon, to have a coffee.

Another great place in the Pasaje Junin is called "Astor", at Carrera 49 No 52 - 84 (tel 511 90 02), open mon to sat from 9am to 7pm. It's a "salon de te" - a tea drinking place, and it kind of feels like a diner of the 50s in the USA. The waitresses have uniforms, and they'll wheel a cart full of sweet pastries to your table if you want to try one.  It's a great place to have breakfast (basic breakfast with eggs 3500 pesos) or lunch - they have good sandwiches, salads, quiches and so on. One of the classics.

About the only real vegetarion option is Restaurante Govinda's (Calle 51 No 52 - 17), run by Medellin's friendly Hare Krishna's. Good vegetarian meals (lunch only, all week except sunday) are 4500 pesos (US$ 2). The restaurant is upstairs.

While you're in the area, the Plazoleta de Esculturas has a bunch of Botero statues, and in this area there are some museums too. The Museo de Antioquia (http://www.museodeantioquia.org, Carrera 52 No 52 - 43) is very good and has a large Botero collection. Alfredo Botero is from Medellin, so this is a good place to see his works.

The church on the Parque Bolivar is called the Catedral Metropolitana, one of South America's biggest brick churches. If the main door is closed look on the side.

The Basilica de la Candelaria, at the Parque Berrio, was built in 1770. There are always people outside selling religious offerings and such.

Finally, El Hueco, southwest of the Parque Berrio metro station, is a big area where you can buy cheap clothes and salsa CDs from street vendors who know what they're talking about salsa-wise. You'll hear  "amilamilamil" (indicating it costs 1000 pesos) shouted hundreds of times.

There is a new park in the center, and a new library called Biblioteca EPM (Carrera 54 No 44 - 48, bibliotecaepm at eeppm.com), built by EPM (Empresas Publicas). The park has dozens of huge pillars pointing the sky, you can't miss it. It's next to El Hueco. The library is free, has a cafe and is a good place to read some magazines or newspapers. There is also free internet and a childrens library.

You can take a tour in a chiva (tel 332 40 20) - one of those colored buses - at night. They leave at the Teatro Pablo Tobon on La Playa in the center. A tour costs 12000 pesos (US$ 5). They drive through various places in Medellin for about 4 hours and end up at a disco.

In the center, El Pequeno Teatro (http://www.pequenoteatro.com/, Carrera 42 Nº 50A - 12, Tel: 2393947 - 2699418) is a theater in a beautiful old house - one of the oldest in this area. It's a non-profit that hosts free theater shows: you pay a voluntary donation - 3000 pesos is typical. They bought the house in 1987. There are 2 theater rooms, a small one that holds 80 people and a larger one that holds 500 people. There is also a theater school here.

El Estadio / La 70

La 70 is another interesting area to party - lots of restaurants and bars. It's less high-class than the Zona Rosa. You can get here easily by taking the subway to El Estadio. On Sundays, thousands of people come here to exercise and run - some of the roads are closed then.

El Rumbantana (Calle 44 (San Juan) No 74 - 80, tel 412 51 52) is the best salsa bar in Medellin, and one of the best in the country and that includes Cali. It's a small bar with great salsa, started in 1995 by Sergio Santana, who wanted to start a real salsa place in Medellin where they play old school salsa, not the more modern commercial stuff that you hear everywhere. You can just come to drink some ron (rum) and be amazed at the dancing moves and the atmosphere, or have a go on the small dancefloor.

Around the Rumbantana there are a few more salsa places, and 2 popular reggae bars.

Other places to see in Medellin

La Placita de Flores (Carrera 30 No 50) is an interesting market in the center (off our map), it opens almost every day all day. The special thing about this market is the upstairs area where they sell herbs. You can buy teas, herbs for baths and so on. If you want to try something, ask for palo sancto, small wooden sticks that burn like incense (500 pesos for a pack). It's not touristy at all.

El Patio Del Tango (Calle 23 No 58 - 38, tel 351 28 56) is not in any of the main areas to visit, but it's a great place to eat some decent (Argentinian) steak and listen to singers singing live tango on the patio. The owner often throws in some songs too. It's small and homey - a real hidden treasure of Medellin.

Envigado is a town outside of Medellin, but you can take the metro there (stop Envigado). It's Pablo Escobar's hometown, but quite safe these days. It's a nice area to party at night, it's more down to earth than the Zona Rosa. The main party area is Calle 38b, one block from the main square. There's a good salsa bar that plays old videos and music, just walk down 38b.

Universidad de Antioquia (metro stop Universitario) is also worth a visit, especially because you can visit the cemetery too once you're in the area - it's great. Also nextdoor is the Jardin Botanica, the botanical garden of Medellin, also worth a visit.

El Cerro Nutibarra is a small hill in the middle of the town. On top is a small replica of an Antioquian town, but the only reason to visit is really to walk up the hill, a nice walk. 

Vinacure (Carrera 50 No 100D Sur-7), last but not least, is an incredible party place outside of Medellin. You'll have to take a bus or taxi (less than US$ 10) but it's worth it. An English artist settled in that area a long time ago, and started giving parties in his house, which was full of art, statues, paintings and so on. They were so popular that he opened a larger place. The art is very trippy, and the music is generally pretty good - English house, pop and so on. Some days are better than others as always. It's totally worth a visit just to see the art and the decoration (there's a small exposition area in the back too).

Paragliding is popular with travelers too. Jaime, Zona de Vuelo (tel 388-1556) is a recommended pilot. Flights cost 60,000 pesos or a course is 800.000 pesos.

El Borinquen (Calle 52 No 47 Bello) is a good salsa place in Bello, north of Medellin. You can go there by metro, just go north until the last metro stop. It's 3 blocks from the metro stop. It's 20 years old, and open every day with salsa music.

Transportation.

Medellin has 2 bus stations and 2 airports. When you arrive by bus from Bogota or the coast (Cartagena, Santa Marta), you'll arrive in the northern bus terminal. If you arrive from Cali or the south, you arrive in the southern terminal. From both terminals, you can easily take taxis to your hostel. From the northern terminal, you can hop on the metro.

The main international airport is outside of the city, it's called Jose Maria Cordoba airport, almost all flights land there. Only small planes that fly to Nuqui for example use the airport that's inside the city. A taxi from the international airport is 40000 pesos (US$ 18). There are also collectivo buses for about 5000 per person. The city is about 45 minutes away from the airport.

Taxis are metered in Medellin, and the meter shows the exact amount, so it's even easier than in Bogota where you have to check on a chart.

Buses from the center to Poblado are labeled "Poblado" and leave at the corner of the Exito supermarket.

The Medellin metro (http://www.metromedellin.org) is a source of great pride in Medellin. It's clean, runs well, is affordable and is a great way to get around. If you want to make a Paisa a compliment about their city, compliment them on the metro. It runs above the ground, and doing a complete tour is not a bad way to see the city.

There is a new part of the metro called MetroCable that uses cable cars up the hills. It's north of the center, and you see some great views of the city. The cable trip up and back takes abut 35 minutes, you can take a break at the top to check out the views and eat or drink something. To go, take the metro in the direction of Niquia, and change to the cable cars in station Acevedo.

Your experience?

Love Medellin or skipped it? Leave comments about your experience to help other travelers! We'll investigate the best comments and tips and incorporate them in the next version of this guide.

For hostels and hotels, see our Medellin - Places to Stay guide.

By Peter (Moderator) (Trustee board) (Dev team) on Jan 3, 2007, 11:55 in Travel tips.


spigrimace says on Jan 3, 2007, 12:54:

Catching sports while in Medellin When you´re in Medellin and don´t want to miss a game or just want some advice on apartments, small business, good places to go, or if you want to impress your date with karaoke, come to Champions Barra Deportiva y Restaurante. We have access to EVERY NFL, NBA, Spanish League (LFP), English Premiere League and Italian League game along with extensive covergae of soccer from Argentina, Brasil, Mexico, Spanish second division, Italy B League and the Bundesliga. We get all the best NCAA Football & Basketball games as well as some NHL Hockey and a great deal of Rugby live as well. Call us with whatever game you want to see and with the power of the internet & satellite, we can usually get it! We have 16 TV´s and 2 huge projector screens. Avenida 80 (La 80) with calle 28. Tel: 3434343

0 funny, 0 helpful.

famsearch says on Jan 3, 2007, 22:34:

just one quick correction... it's fernando botero, not alfredo...
dan

dan

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thur says on Jan 4, 2007, 07:02:

Well... The climate is great... keep in mind that El Poblado is generally 2 degrees cooler than the centre. Personally I didn't like 'Museo de Antioquia', the Botero collection isn't that large (I left with the impression that the 'Coleccion Botero' in Bogota was larger... and free entrance). In Medellin you can easily be in a nice street or plaza, take a wrong turn and end up in the worst street ever. Plaza de Cisneros and the library for example are nice and ok. Look through the window behind the library and there's a very ugly street.
The metro is great, the Metrocable is kinda cool. All locals said that Medellin is like a little town, everything can be seen within a day or two.
Greetings,

~Sights & Sounds~
www.pbase.com/thur

- pbase.com/thur

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coffee beaner says on Jan 8, 2007, 10:43:

some other places to note as far as clubbing or partying are:
Oro Solido (Salsa Club in la 70)
Sarao (Another great Salsa Club)
Mango's (Probably the best club in Medellin)
Dono Clarita (going towards Barrio Robledo, great club open until 5 am)

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jenningsnurse1 says on Jan 13, 2007, 11:37:

things to do in medellin not just for kids will be in medellin end of jan for 5 days, what should this gringa do that will be a teriffic bargain. I am going to have dental work and plastic work done. Where is a nice, safe, place to stay. I understand there is an artist museum there. I am not a college student anymore but still love life a lot. Just not into bar and disco scene. Can anyone suggest a few things to do and a few things I must buy while I'm there?

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southern151 says on Jan 13, 2007, 14:40:

Hope you are not... going before Jan 28. If so, I hope that you already have your room. I will be there at the same time Jan 25 and have had hell finding a room for the first weekend. The reason: Colombia Tex. "What?", you ask. If my understanding is correct, it is a large, international textile convention that happens annually. That basically means that there are next to NO rooms and when you find them, they are very expensive.

Hopefully the next time that I add to this thread, it is with my long list of ideas of the great places to visit in Medillin!

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PaisaGay says on Jan 17, 2007, 07:47:

Gay Medellin Are there any gay bars/clubs in Medellin? What's the gay scene like there?

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coffee beaner says on Jan 18, 2007, 16:30:

just wondering why?? I've noticed that a lot of people always talk about El Poblado and how great it is and all. I personally disagree, all you see in el Poblado is "american wannabes", no offense to anyone... I went to el Poblado and wasn't really impressed with it since I see the same kind of clubs and bars all over New York City. If you go to Medellin try to hit up places around "La 70" or "La 33" which have more of a Colombia feel to it. Also if you want to club in a similar place as el Poblado, go instead to Envigado or Sabaneta which also has great clubs and women. But one thing I wont disagree with is that Mango's is the greatest club in the city without doubt.

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Man Tequila says on Jan 21, 2007, 18:42:

I recently returned from my second visit to Colombia. I spent a fair amount of time in Medellin and found Peter's information far superior to Lonely Planet, or other guides I saw. Thanks for your efforts. Medellin isn't the easiest city to navigate (due to the hills, local names for the streets, a big city, spread out) -- between Peter's maps, friendly taxi drivers and the fine metro ... this didn't matter.

For the most part, the paisas were exceptionally friendly. I had a good time. In my limited experience, Parque Lleras is a good place to people watch but that people there can occasionally be less friendly than in other parts of Medellin. I also thought Mango's was a little overrated -- go to a good salsa place. I really enjoyed Vinacure and the Guanabano area was a real find. I also enjoyed the view from El Pinol and the Oriente Circuit.

Accommodation in Medellin is not expensive by some standards, and even fancier hotels sometimes have good specials; call them, ask for discounts, check out their websites. The hostels in Medellin do get good ratings on the websites which review these things.

The clima is very nice, and I'll be back. I made so many friends there.

*********************
Entonces que, America?

Aunque no me creas/ si me lo propongo/ lograre olvidarte/ porque a fin de cuentas/ no soy tan cobarde./ Y termino todo una de estas tardes/ no sera dificil buscar algún sitio donde refugiarme/ donde nunca mas vuelvas a encontrarme. (Polo Montañez)

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larryrn says on Jan 23, 2007, 16:33:

El Pablado Feb 16th WE I will be home in El Pablado this weekend - email me at larry at rn.org if anyone there wants to hang out.. I do not know if the number below will work since I haven't been there for 6 months and my SIMM with Movistar might have run out.. Email is the best --

Larry at rn.org


---
Larry Snyder, www.rn.org
Coral Springs, FL USA 954-816-5060
Medellin (Pablado), Colombia, SA (57) 316-2948618

Your Source for Nursing CEUs - www.RN.ORG - www.RNCE.US - www.EnfermeriaSite.com - www.Enfermeria.US

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andresaway says on Feb 13, 2007, 07:50:

running the town? I think it's very exagerated to say that "In the 80s, Pablo Escobar was running the town". Unfortunately he did have a lot of power through his terror and corruption strategies but in no way we can afirm that this despicable man was "running the town".

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andresaway says on Feb 13, 2007, 07:57:

just a small correction It's El Poblado, not el Pablado. I think you just need to buy a new Movistar phone card and your line would be re-activated automatically. I hope you have a great time in my city.

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AJ1203 says on Feb 16, 2007, 07:46:

area around Parque Bolivar From what I have been able to glean, the area around Parque Bolivar is reasonably safe and should be fine if I take the usual precautions one should take regardless of where they are in Colombia. I will be coming to Medellin in late February to early March, and the hotels "Hotel Cristal" and "Hotel Capitolio" seem to be about what I am looking for in terms of accommodation and price. I just want to make sure that I'll be able to walk around in the daytime and easily get a taxi to and back from where I am going at night.

If anyone can confirm or negate what I say, I'd really appreciate it. Also, if anyone has experience with either of these hotels, I'd love to hear that as well.

Many thanks!

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Célle says on Mar 7, 2007, 21:33:

Thanks Peter. Awesome job with this guide. I will be in Medellin this Colombia and sure will make good use of it :) especially because you have included all of the new areas.

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Célle says on Mar 7, 2007, 21:36:

ops correction I will be in Medellin this August and will make good use of it ;)

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monkeykilla says on Mar 12, 2007, 01:42:

I am going in July Where is a good place to rent a apartment? I am going in july -august, is there any cool holidays or events anyone knows about in this month?

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Medellin Travel says on Mar 14, 2007, 09:24:

Medellin travel site for those interested Making a travel site for Medellin and would really appreciate feedback and comments. Please check out:

www.medellin-travel-guide.com

www.medellin-travel-guide.com

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Cali2005 says on May 20, 2007, 18:56:

Climate Perfecto - A real blessing after Bogota Medellin truely has a unique climate. While i have noticed that Colombians are very territorial, and will always call their cities beautiful. However, from personal experience MEDELLIN IS THE CLEANEST OF THE LARGE CITIES.

Medellin has preserved trees, and while pollution is strong in large cities, Medellin maintains is my favorite of the large cities. Of course the farms in the country side are absolutely beautiful and have plenty of fresh air.

Occaisonally you can see the huge colrfull parrots flying around in Poblado. Humming Birds, Guineas, Wood Peckers, and another 10 species of birds keep my balcony alive with colors every day.

The only thing missing here is a beach, although many tourist sites near medellin have lakes, or big pools.

Sante Fe Antioqua and Guatape (spelling) are great places to visit for the day. Now these sites are quite secure and tranquil for day trips.


Viva Colombia

Medellin Apartments and Tours http://www.ParadiseRealtyMedellin.com

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drknstormy says on Jun 14, 2007, 22:37:

First time traveler to Colombia!!! i am going to medellin aug 9th for 10 days and i so excited. since that is a lot of time i would like to see other areas of the country especially the beach so which beach is the nicest to go visit for 2 days out of my trip? and what are the ways to get there? also what do the chicks wear down there. i dont want to look out of place!! i appreciate the help!!!

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Lexxy says on Jun 16, 2007, 10:32:

One of the best restaurants ever Hi, I am in Medellin and my family (Colombians) has been taking me around to some great places. I wanted to share a few here that I believe are worth the trip if you decide to check them out. One of the best restaurants I have been to is "Familia Garcia." They only serve one main lunch dish called "Sobrebarriga" (flank steak) and it is absolutly mouth wateringly amazing. It is a little hard to find so pay attention. It's in Barrio El Volador. Calle 73 with Carrera 69. You go down Calle 73 and turn down Carr 69. It's almost at the end of the group of buildings on your left. It's pretty cheap and well worth it!! Hope you all enjoy.

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Lexxy says on Jun 16, 2007, 10:39:

A nice bar on La 70 A great little bar on La 70 is called Centro Artistico CADECOL. It's an authentic Antioqueno music bar at the corner of Carrera 70 and Cir 4ta. Mostly an older crowd, you wont see a whole lot of the younger generation there. But the music is moving and beautiful and the atmosphere is very relaxing. I would definately recommend it for a calm enjoyable evening.

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Lexxy says on Jun 16, 2007, 10:49:

Two tourist sites worth seeing There are two places that have not been mentioned here before that I really recommend seeing. The first is "Museo Cementerio de San Pedro" The cemetary museum of San Pedro. It's a national landmark and very beautiful. The cemetary opened in 1842 and there are some absolutly amazing crypts. It doesn't cost anything to enter and you can ask any taxi driver in the city to take you there. Or you can take the metro and get off at "Estacion Hospital" and it's about 2 blocks away.
Within walking distance is "El Jardin Botanico de Medellin" The Medellin Botanic Gardens. At this moment it is under construction and so it's free until June 30th 2007. After that I am not sure what the fee is but I know it is not expensive. It's an amazing place and the Orchid garden is spectacular. I hope you all enjoy it.

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