Living in denial

Violence in Colombia- naturally enough it's a popular topic of conversation here. And when the lines get drawn between those who think Colombia's as safe as the Dordogne and others who realise it's a scarily dangerous place, I most definitely side with the latter camp.

The reasons for trying to promote the idea of Colombia as a sort of ‘Costa Rica with a bad press’ are, I imagine, many: From the sentimentality of the émigré, to the wishful thinking of the infrequent tourist. But a lot of native Colombians also tell themselves what they wish were true rather than what's actually the case. In short, they’re in denial.

Two years ago I was in a small town in Antioquia. One night a group of men opened fire in the street. Mercifully, no-one was hit and after the initial panic, people began to speculate as to who was responsible. Within the hour, the gunmen were identified as members of a certain vigilante group warning the local youth off any anti-social behaviour. The following day, my curiosity lead me to ask (quietly and of people I knew well) more about the occurrence. By then it was downgraded to ‘just some neighbourhood guys fooling around’, not an organised (nor particularly dangerous) group. The following days saw the incident get more and more diluted until, eventually, everybody denied that it had ever happened in the first place.

I’ve heard similar tales from ex-pats about how uncomfortable, but evident, truths are ignored or denied in Colombia. Which is in no way a criticism- if that’s a necessary psychological mechanism for living there, then fine, I’d be doing the same thing. However, if tourists backpackers and potential retirees are to listen to the often shrill chorus of the ‘Colombia is paradise brigade’, they should also pay attention to those who take a more prudent view of that wonderful (but troubled) land. And exercise the necessary caution when they’re over there. A false sense of security is no security at all.

By kalder on Sep 4, 2007, 08:08 in Friendly Talkzone.

Miguel says on Sep 4, 2007, 09:47:

Hardly breaking news kalder, and no offense to your post for it is good advice for those who do not know the ground rules or lack of ground rules in Colombia. She it is what she is.

droble77 says on Sep 4, 2007, 12:43:

Not sure if your example is really all that good. Maybe it was just a bunch of drunk guys after all. It seems only natural that people would exaggerate the incident in the moments after it occurred.

Still, I know what you're getting at and putting aside the political/criminal violence and kidnapping, there's plenty of delinquency to worry about.

Last June I was in a club called Barlovento in Medellin minding my own business when someone grabbed me from behind and pulled me right off my chair. Not a case of mistaken identity! ;-) Turns out to be 2 drunk kids fighting over a girl, one of them grabbed me as balance in their struggle. Club bouncers were all over them the very next second.

I'm not sure if any lesson can be drawn from this, and let's face it, this type of incident can happen in many discos throughout the world. I am grateful security for that club frisks everyone before they enter. Otherwise, I could certainly have ended up a casualty "in the wrong place at the wrong time." This kind of delinquency is obviously not unique to Colombia but it is all too common down there and in Latin America in general. . .

capitan_centella says on Sep 4, 2007, 14:59:

Hum, you've got a point kalder. And you see for yourself how colombia is. Most of the "colombians emigrants" says that colombia is just about bad publicity. Others, just keep crying about the mountains, the coffe, womens. . . how good and gracefull this country is. . . hum, naive people. If is so gracefull in first place, why did they leave? why choose a education overseas if everything is so good in here?

Our "parlamentarian ruler" (I´m sorry I didn´t vote for this guy. I think he´s nice, but he´s a liar, and most terrifying, he´s try to convince everybody of his lies.) has many stunts to convince people (specially north americans, and europeans) that he is WINNING the fight against everything. So, we have adds in our beaches, with spectacular womens, songs, and our very own country brand (. . .check my post: colombia es pasión?. . .) but besides all that, how objectives are colombians with the status quo? drive behind a police officer in our roads, made a "safe colombia"?. tv transmisions about "every thing is good", made me throw my tv set. I´m so sick of it. Some dark numbers as the PIB made a richer colombia?. we have more oportunities becouse public superior education it´s about to close down. . . hum. . .

We just get used to live in crisis. So it´s not a new thing that somebody, shot somebody.

Bottom line is: See colombia as it is. Not with the nostalgic eyes from those who are away. Or the sweet goverment talking. Or the pesimistic view of my generation. Colombia is what colombia is. Nothing more.

"When you open your eyes, you turn around with the world, But it can change, if you only close it, and see a dream to yourself." Me.

wcarmack says on Sep 5, 2007, 03:41:

Kalder, I appreciate you post. My wife and I are on the verge of retiring in Colombia where we met 30 some years ago and where our first child was born. We returned to North America shortly after she was born because, frankly, her birth caused us to take a "trip to the mountain top" and alter our plans in favour of what we thought of as her well being. We have always wanted to return to Colombia because it seemed to beckon us. It has been a long road. It is now possible.

Our children, now four in number, are frankly, not amused at the prospect of the parents going to Colombia.. They are now all adults except one who is near finishing high school. One of our daughters with a nice fresh degree in International Relations/ Political Science plays the possible danger card at every opportunity. (She even got a certificate in Spanish from her university knowing this was a household topic for years.) They ignore most things positive about Colombia so far.

Even outright bribery attempts like offering to pay for a year or two in a Colombian university so she could flush out her education with a dash of reality has been in vain. How silly of me to think some total immersion might add some reality to opinion - hopefully for the better but accurate, or as close to accurate as one can get regardless.

The bottom line is that we are coming anyway - sans children (for the moment).

To introduce them to Colombia we did manage to get the most reluctant of the daughters to agree to a trip to San Andres Island before years end. She resisted the idea of a vacation on the North Coast - doesn't even want to consider seeing Cali - at this point in time. And before my budget knew it, poof, we find that one of the older daughters feels the need to accompany her. Then, wonder of wonders, the son has expressed interest. We are hoping this a form of progress. Now if I can just get them to sign this "memorandum of understanding......."

Our Colombian Citizen daughter is the only one not wanting to go. Just to San Andres. Bummer.

But the fact remains that in the minds of many many people, Colombia is a dangerous place. Oddly enough, many of my friends and associates and their wives have been saying, with what appears to be sincerity, that as soon as we are settled there they want to visit. It is a very interesting thing.

When we were there last year for a month, we never encountered any bad situations. It was noteworthy how everyone we met gave us their version of security tips - which we heeded - generally speaking.

The only time terror entered the picture last year was when we were passengers in a car on a Santa Marta to Cartagena trip. What a movie that was.

But your post is a necessary reminder of possible reality.

I know. I was once robbed (circa 1980) by a woman and two transvestites at about two in the morning on Avenida Sexta in Cali - just walking by minding my own business - failing to heed all the common sense warnings my rum soaked brain was trying it's best send out - when poof - knife to the throat. I started laughing - must've been that Infantry instinct - the one that lets you know when you are absolutely fucked - and it's all in another's hands - and the Cuba Libres.

Bye bye wallet.

The likelyhood of those circumstances repeating themselves are vastly reduced these days.

Then of course there is fate...............
There's also Club Colombia......

Sorry, got carried away there......

carol302 says on Sep 5, 2007, 12:38:

I know Colombia could be very dangerous, but it also can be safe if you avoid risky situations. I'm 25, I have lived in Cali all my life and let me tell you I have never been robbed or anything like that,and I have a regular life, as people my age, we go out to dance, to the movies, to have dinner, etc. But I don't put myself on dangerous situations, for instance, I avoid walking alone at night/Morning, I try not to visit dangerous nighborhoods at night, I go out with good people (not involved with drug dealers), etc...

Well, I guess my point is that you can have a great life Colombia. Off course there is a danger, but name a city that doesn't have a dangerous places. On Rome people warned me about being robbed by Albanians, on Madrid people warned me about gypsys, on NY people told me to be very careful on the subway, etc... So if you have to be careful on other countries it is obvioues you have to be careful in Colombia, all you need is common sense.

and I also agree with rubito: "Most "safe" places in the world are also BORING". and I would like to add that Colombia is a very exciting country to live on.

Best,

john_stark says on Sep 5, 2007, 18:39:

Only in Colombia is a sicario missing his intended target and shooting an innocent bystander in the head described as an "accident". Talk to a few Colombians. Every one of them can name at least 20 people (relatives, friends, aquaitances) killed by violence.