Ciudad Perdida Trek

phoebefr says on Dec 25, 2007, 15:20:

hey there. i went on this trek two and a half years ago and it was amazing. completely worth it. i think the only way to do it is book from hostel miramar (there are probably other hostels/hotels in the city that help arrange it too but i don't know them). There is only one or two tour groups allowed at a time therefore only one tour company which is affiliated/approved by the government as it's a protected zone/park. i had never trekked in my life and it was ok. some parts were difficult but not impossible. it's absolutely gorgeous scenery. you sleep with your group in hammocks that the guides carry (donkeys do most of the way actually). hope that helps!

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 25, 2007, 16:31:

Thanks for the info, phoebefr. Do you hike most of the way or get a jeep? I got the impression somewhere that most of the journey was by jeep. And, is the Colombian Army mostly in control of that area or does the situation change??

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

nueva york bombero says on Dec 25, 2007, 18:14:

When are you going Port? I've been interested, but I don't think I'll have time this trip.
3 weeks for Cali, Cartagena, Barranquilla and Santa Marta!!
I'm squeezing too much into a small time.
I love hearing about it though! I definitely will go soon....

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 25, 2007, 18:45:

It's just on my wish list, nyb. ; ) No definite plans yet. Could be at least a year or two (which is about how often I have the opportunity and time to travel internationally - unless it's strictly business). Have to figure out the logistics, weigh safety risks, and then take a firefighter endurance training course in order to be able to hike for hours at a time at high altitudes. Firefighters have to be so fit, I'm sure the hike would hardly be a challenge in your case!

Hope you have a great visit to Colombia!

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

nueva york bombero says on Dec 25, 2007, 18:55:

Thanks! I'm sure I will.
Oh, and about the fitness and firefighters....You should see some of the fatties I work with!
Thanks for the compliment though! Maybe we'll be hiking to the lost city one of these days....

0 funny, 0 helpful.

robi666 says on Dec 25, 2007, 20:50:

"is the Colombian Army mostly in control of that area or does the situation change??" LOL

"I am a citizen of the most beautiful nation on earth. A nation whose laws are harsh yet simple, a nation that never cheats, which is immense and without borders, where life is lived in the present."

0 funny, 0 helpful.

diabloblas says on Dec 26, 2007, 10:24:

i did lost city a couple of years ago...& will probably do it again as i liked it a bunch & found out later that there is a different return route...here is a cut & paste from my journal

CIUDAD PERDIDA

...the wait for a group varies...i had 4 days..spent time before trek visiting the museum in santa marta...was worth the investment in time

...i had 8 in my group...4 israelis, 2 south africans & one kiwi...

arranged trip thru hotel miramar...shitty place to stay but they have good restaurant... stayed a day in santa marta & then moved over to taganga while waiting for trek...10 minute collectivo ride from miramar hotel...

6 day 5 nite trek went like this:

day 1....2 hour jeep ride..3 hour steep hike..hardest day with hike at hottest time

2..........4 hour hike..easiest day...finished by 1 30 pm...jump in pool at campsite

3..........5 hours...sustained up hill...some precarious cliff hugging...steps a little tough & very slippery the last day to the city...very slippery & need for caution on way down

4..........hang out at lost city for a full day.....can get cold at nite here

5..........the rains came down hard the last nite at the city so it was a tough 8 hours of trekking with 5 or 6 scary crossings of the river that was just a creek on the way up

6.........3 hours trekking...couple hour truck ride back to santa marta

...all camp grounds except lost city itself were hammocks with mosquito nets under open side palapas...nice setting with running water & water pools all around...settings were close to friendly little villages

..cabin for 2 nites at ciudad perdido itself...cold 2 nites...needed 2 blankets in contrast to most of the trip which was hot

...had 2 friendly porters...one guide (wilson)...decent food & early morning coffee...mule carries food & supplies most of way...no need to carry much individually...i contracted to have them supply a blanket at all the stops...in addition to a change of clothes & the barest of toiletries i carried a miner's torch, towel, ron & smoke...they supplied decent & ample amounts of food & had some snacks inbetween

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 26, 2007, 19:08:

Thank you for the details of your trip, diabloblas!

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

el flaco says on Dec 28, 2007, 02:17:

Here's my trip report from November 2006, I was annoyed that it was dropped from the "Colombia Guide" for PBH.

Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City) is located near Santa Marta in the Colombian mountains, the Sierra Nevada. It was built over a period of about five hundred years before the Spaniards turned up, after that it was abandoned and lost to the jungle. It was rediscovered in the 1970’s, it has been excavated and restored by the Colombian government. It consists of uncut stone work and is a vast site of stairs and round platforms where the wooden huts and “temples� were. In the 1990’s there were organised trips to the Ciudad Perdida on foot, in 2003 a group of tourists were captured by guerrillas and held for three months. None were harmed or ransomed, it was all a publicity stunt. At that time the area was taken over by coca planters and “policed� by para-militaries, private armies funded by the drug barons. After that the area was cleared by the Colombian army and coca production has ended, the area is guarded by the Colombian army at present. The Ciudad Perdida is pristine when you get there, no kiosks, no souvenir sellers not even any guards, you really feel like Indiana Jones discovering it for the first time. To get there you either go by helicopter or you walk there.

First I must say that my trip was one of the most incredible things I have ever done and I strongly recommend it to you all. Both the walk and the Lost City were superb. Secondly I must say that it is incredibly dangerous, the walk is rough and you risk breaking a leg every day and there are stretches where if you fall you will do yourself serious harm – it is very slippery. The trip is also specifically mentioned by the Foreign Office (UK Government) as not safe, no reasons are given but I assume that this is because of the possibility of kidnap by the guerrillas.

Risk assessment: I consider that the risk of kidnap is minimal, I would be happier with para-militaries than the boy soldiers of the Colombian army. Physically you should be in good shape with good footwear, if you are scared of heights don’t go. I am but was able to overcome my fear – but I was frightened. Because the area is not approved by my government any insurance is invalid so if you break a leg or worse you’re on your own. There is yellow fever and malaria which can be prevented and dengue which can’t. There weren’t many mosquitoes about ten around me day and night, they didn’t bother me. Good mosquito nets are provided.

The trip is for six days and five nights, fully inclusive and costs 440,000 pesos. I booked at the Hospederia Casa Familiar, Calle 10c No 2-14 www.hospederiacasafamiliar.freeservers.com where a single room costs 14,000 pesos I recommend the hotel as a basic clean family run hotel, it is opposite the infamous Miramar backpackers hostel located in the heart of the red light district but close to the beach. I felt very safe in that area, children play in the street at night. Or you can book at the tourist office near the main square. On the trek I was given the option of paying another 100,000 pesos for another day and night with a different route back, instead of retracing my steps. This is very worthwhile but is even tougher than the main trip but still do-able. They supply porters who do the cooking and setting up of the camp and mules (mulas) that carry the gear. So you only have to carry your own personal belongings and water. The campsites are basic but have proper flush toilets, showers and a roof over everything. You sleep in hammocks, everyone sleeps well after a day’s walking. The food is wonderful and lots of it. The water is untreated taken from streams and rivers, I was shocked at this but I suffered no illness, it means you don’t have to carry much water during the day. The pace is set by the group, you only walk for half of the day so I never felt rushed.

When to go: even if it is dry in Santa Marta it rains up in the mountains so any month is fine. For my trip Santa Marta was dry and sunny and out of season so cheap, on the trek it rained in the afternoon but was dry during the morning when we were out walking. Also the next week was the Miss Colombia election in nearby Cartagena.

What to take: you are provided with a list of things to take which isn’t that accurate, you don’t need a sleeping bag as blankets are provided although a sheet sleeping bag would be useful, I don’t know how often anything is washed. A one litre water bottle, a 1.5 litre PET bottle is just as good and lighter. Toilet paper is provided at the site, on the trail I preferred to use water. I took a wide necked 0.75 litre water bottle to pee into during the night (well I am fifty five years old) this meant I didn’t have to leave the safety of my mosquito net. I took a small bottle of talcum powder to put on my feet and did not regret doing so.

During the day your clothes will get soaked by your sweat or by the rain. Any wet clothes will never dry out in the humidity although there is plenty of space to hang out your clothes at the camp site. So at camp you change into your dry clothes, make sure that these never get wet by carrying them in two plastic bags – there is a real risk of dropping your pack in a river, plus the rain.

The trek consists of crossing ridges so you are either going up or down steep slopes, the path is muddy and slippery with lots of rocks. It is very important to have footwear that you can trust to give a good grip and give a comfortable walk. There are lots of rivers to ford so have some waterproof sandals to change into, the rivers are deep and fast flowing so there is a danger of getting swept away but no danger of drowning. You walk for about six hours a day. There are mosquitoes about day and night so I wore long sleeved shirts and long quick drying trousers. It is hot so thin stuff. Others wore shorts, tee shirts and flip flops for the trek so these are only recommendations, you know best. Carrying a heavy pack is a bore so cut right back on stuff, a little hotel bar of soap is plenty there seemed to be soap available most nights. A good torch is essential but take a lightweight LED one.

I would recommend that you try out all your kit in the Parque Tayrona by visiting the Pueblocito in the park a few days before the trip, it will also get you fit. You will need to take two litres of water and food.

But above all, do the trip to the lost city.

Extra bit:

Description of the Lost City:

All travellers agree that the highlight of the trip is the trek and not the site itself, although I would not dismiss the site which is impressive and interesting. However… the fact is nothing is known about the purpose of the site, it hasn’t been used for over a thousand years, and all the wooden structures have gone leaving only circular platforms about ten metres across with often impressive stairs leading to them. The amount of work involved is incredible and done with care, however the stones aren’t cut in any way so it is like the dry stone work you can see in Ireland, just rocks piled up. It is a very extensive site with a lot still waiting to be cleared of the jungle.

The original indians still live in the area in circular huts so they were able to help the archaeologists identify the purpose of objects found. The supposition is that families would congregate there and live there for short periods for …? There are graves that are for important people only that are assumed to be priests and not leaders.

Photos don’t do justice to the place. There is a good museum at the main square in Santa Marta (free!) with models explaining it all.

But really it is trekking through the Colombian jungle with porters and pack horses (well mules) not forgetting the guide with his machete and the small group. There’s a little Indiana Jones in all of us. The path is challenging but within everyone’s capabilities. Obviously the fauna and flora are impressive.

Have fun!

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 28, 2007, 04:54:

El flaco, you've provided a wonderful, very informative trip summary! Thanks so much! Knowing these kinds of details is very helpful. : )

I would think one could purchase medical evacuation insurance even though your country recommends against travel to the area. I was able to get a travel insurance policy to cover medical emergencies and evacuation even though the US State Department warns against travel to Colombia.

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

el flaco says on Dec 28, 2007, 07:21:

Forgot about the jeep bit. The start of the trek is where the road ends. You get to this by "jeep" this is a four wheel drive toyota (?) converted into a chiva. The chiva trip is heavy going and you may feel sick. At certain points we had to get out and walk. Sitting in the enclosed cab is much more comfortable, first come first served. The trip starts outside the hostels in Santa Marta.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

diabloblas says on Dec 28, 2007, 08:11:

interesting el flaco... your age & how you handle your nocturnal emissions..lol...

...this thread has sparked my interest enough that i will have to review my raw notes & upgrade my cyber notes on this trek...

...i did this trek april of 04..my guide ...wilson...was one of those tied up during the hostage crisis the year before...of course he had some interesting comments about his captive days...enough that i stopped in to see him again in 05 & will probably see him again shortly...

..wilson also has a permanent leg injury from a fall on the trail...i think on the 1200 very slippery skinny, moss covered steps...did i say very slippery?...i meant to say...very very very slippery as in slowly sidestepping down...no problem going up...i got down on all 4s

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 28, 2007, 20:05:

diabloblas, I also appreciate your report about what to expect if taking this journey! I think I could manage the hike as long as I got to sleep in a comfortable bed (very comfortable!), and had a nice meal with a good wine afterwards. The idea of sleeping in a hammock and being mosquito food is not very appealing! Also, it is very important to me know about the dangers of the slippery rocks! And, even if you pay for emergency medical evacuation, you may not be able to get it if the medical team is afraid their helicopter is going to be shot down by insurgents.

Thanks to all who've replied for helping me get a clearer picture of the risks and the positive aspects of this journey!

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

robi666 says on Dec 28, 2007, 20:15:

And don't forget that you may spot one of the "Los Mellizos" up there, advice the FBI and get the millionaire reward!

"I am a citizen of the most beautiful nation on earth. A nation whose laws are harsh yet simple, a nation that never cheats, which is immense and without borders, where life is lived in the present."

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 29, 2007, 11:15:

Robi, who are Los Mellizos??

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 29, 2007, 12:14:

Oh, The Twins... You think they might be hangin out near the Lost City, Robi? Is that their territory?

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

diabloblas says on Dec 29, 2007, 13:25:

portena...the lost city trek is not for everybody and i don't think it is for my squeeze who i will be showing around colombia the month of march.

It's not that the trek itself is all that hard or dangerous ...she's proven her fitness on some great treks in the near past....it's the 5 nites of primitive living that she's object to

she'll be game for a nite sleeping in a confines of a mosquito draped hammock, reading her book with the aid of a miner's lamp at one of the shore camps in tayona park..maybe even 2 nites i hope....but i won't ask her to do the lost city trek...but i'll do it again with a different return

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 29, 2007, 14:10:

The 5 nights of primitive living is what sounds the most challenging to me as well!!!!

I do really appreciate the clear, detailed descriptions of the trip and what to expect.

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

robi666 says on Dec 29, 2007, 18:08:

The group is called "Los Nevados" and yes, that is their territory. At least for the first half of the trek.
After you could be in Farc land, who knows exactly the balance now...

Few weeks ago, I witnessed a big operation by the Colombian army, to a vereda called Orinoco, just up there. Helicopter up and down all night. Still have the army around my finca.
Of course the fact went into the news just one week after...

One of the mellizos succeed in escaping, they just got few men of his personal guard.

Of course, like it is normal in Colombia, it was no secret that he was up there. But the balance changed (in the sense that the government decided to do something) during the last month, when they killed a fiscale in Santa Marta. The army, gaula, police are all corrupted and willing to cooperate in Santa Marta, that's not a secret. But killing a fiscale was a wrong move...

Now, it is open and declared war. Who knows what can happen... have a look at:
http://www.eltiempo.com/justicia/2007-12-16/ARTICULO-WEB-NOTA_INTERIOR...

Normally AUC wouldn't bother, but they kidnapped two persons for ransom in the last three months just in Buritaca, so, who knows?

I personally wouldn't do the trek right now. And like me, many Colombians would not do that. Better to wait what it will happen in the next weeks...

"I am a citizen of the most beautiful nation on earth. A nation whose laws are harsh yet simple, a nation that never cheats, which is immense and without borders, where life is lived in the present."

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 29, 2007, 18:41:

Muchas gracias, Robi! Sometimes I read the Colombian military websites in an effort to gauge the risks of trips like this, but it's not always that helpful. I've seen trip photos that are very enticing (mist-shrouded mountains, waterfalls, etc.). I was surfing the web looking for more info just a little while ago. When I saw the photos of the little tour on the side to the cocaine factory (before I read your post) I reconsidered this trip. Not into drugs, and certainly wouldn't want to be caught in the crossfire on this Ciudad Perdida bonus tour.

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

diabloblas says on Dec 30, 2007, 09:21:

portena...obviously you are really digging into this trek & agonizing over whether to do it or not...

...from what i gather from your comments you would not like the ciudad perdida trek because of the physical discomforts...understand & it is not comfortable if you can't sleep well in a hammock or in a cold cabin at the lost city itself...not to mention not having electricity & late nite snacks etc

...but i would not be discouraged from doing the trek for safety sake...no giant threats from the terrain or the soldiers..but enough to make it interesting & rewarding

..i'm in a window where i can access my raw notes from years of travel & because i am heading back to northern south america in a month or 2 i did just that & upgraded my computer chapter on the lost city, other south american treks & my past travels in general..4 decades almost evenly divided between business & backpacking

...i'm not a daredevil but i love to see areas that have been in the news for current natural disasters...& political upheavels to see for myself...& most of the time i come away thinking that things are out of proportion to what the mainstream news conveys..the lost city trek safety issue & hugo chavez diabolical behavior are cases in point...rarely do i see them the same as the media like hurricane andrew or the tsunami in SEA

...the problems in pakistan & afghanistan are not cases in point..they are worse...having just returned from that area i can say they are not as dangerous & crazy as they appear on the news...they are worse & no chance of getting better soon with the close minded religious fanatical education & laws...the only hope is a generation away with the english & internet...they are striving to learn english& there are waiting lines at the cybercafes to play video & watch porno...seen both in all the cybercafes i've been to in asia

CIUDAD PERDIDA trek

...the wait for a group varies...i had 4 days..spent time before trek visiting the museum in santa marta...was worth the investment in time

...8 in my group...4 israelis early 20s, 2 south africans age 24 & one kiwi age 32

arranged trip thru hotel miramar...shitty place to stay but they have good restaurant... stayed a day in santa marta..casa familia.. & then moved over to taganga while waiting for trek...10 minute collectivo ride from miramar hotel...

casa familia...bare bones 4 story family run hotel down street from miramar..friendly & safe...stored my passport in their safe

6 day 5 nite trek went like this:

day 1....2 hour jeep ride..3 hour steep hike..hardest day with hike at hottest time...slept overlooking a pueblo in idealic jungle setting with stream. nearby a big natural pool with a 4 meter jump into its clear waters...fun & refreshing

day 2....coffee at 6 am that went well with a doobie....only a 4 hour hike..easiest day...finished by 1 30 pm...lazy afternoon...smoke & lounge

day 3 5 hours...sustained up hill...some precarious cliff hugging...forded river 5 or 6 times...steps a little tough & very slippery up to city after final river crossing...very slippery & need for caution on way down.

day 4......hang out at lost city for a full day.....can get cold at nite here...wore both my long sleeve tshirts at nite to stay warm..

day 5...porters up late..hard rains the last nite made for a late start & a tough 8 hours of trekking with 5 or 6 scary crossings of the river that was just a creek on the way up

day 6...3 hours trekking...steep down hill most of the way & then a couple hour truck ride back to santa marta
...kiwi guy reinjured what he claimed was a old futbal knee injury...had to be trasported out the last day on a mule..

.. got out ahead of group on last day & stopped by a couple dozen soldiers...leader had face mask on...asked me some stern questions & then lightened up when i told him i was in the 101st airborne in nam...shared some dogface laughs & then let me go...got a high 5 by all the other soldiers as i made my way back onto the trail

...all camp grounds except lost city itself were hammocks with mosquito nets under open side palapas...nice setting with running water & water pools all around...settings were close to friendly little villages

..cabin for 2 nites at ciudad perdido itself...cold 2 nites...needed 2 blankets in contrast to most of the trip which was hot

...had 2 friendly porters...one guide (wilson)...decent food & early morning coffee...mule carries food & supplies most of way...no need to carry much individually...i contracted to have them supply a blanket at all the stops...in addition to a change of clothes & the barest of toiletries i carried a miner's torch, towel, ron & smoke...they supplied decent & ample amounts of food & had some snacks inbetween

1 light weight nylon pants
2 all weather synthetic long sleeve fast dry tshirts
2 nylon underwear
1 set of thermal silk long underwear
2 nylon socks
1 new balance shoes
2 ace bandages...to support ankles
1 visor
1 chamois towel
1 poncho

toothbrush, paste, hotel soaps, baby powder, bandaides & antiseptic lotion, mosquito repellent, antiitch cream wash cloth

mountain smith fanny pack & water bottle, pocket knife, minor's lamp plus a smaller torch...writing material

the only dead weight carried in fanny pack

.....extra shirt, sox & underwear
pair of long thermal silks
rain poncho.
smoking material & 3 half pints of ron
minor's lamp, knife, toiletries

...wash underwear sox & shirt everynight...not even nylon dries completely but baby powder is a good equalizer & protects against chaffing

...for head & neck protection i use the visor & chamois towel...soak them in the ever present cool streams for hot weather trekking.

...thermal silks a nite time protection against mosquitoes

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 30, 2007, 11:38:

Great tips for what clothes to wear and supplies to take, of course, you should be an expert in that after serving in the 101st Airborne!

Sounds like the weather and climate in this area is rather Vietnam like with the high heat and humidity.

I could probably tolerate sleeping in a hammock outside with the mosquitos...for a few nights.


.some precarious cliff hugging... How precarious? Are you walking on your tip toes on a two inch ledge? I saw some photos on different websites that were awesome. The terrain did look challenging but nothing looked impossible. Then again it's hard to take pictures when engaged in precarious cliff hugging.

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.

diabloblas says on Dec 30, 2007, 12:30:

i didn't say i served in the 101st...just knew that these macho type guys like to talk macho & figured that was my way out... it worked

...the terrain is nothing more than my 65 year old squeeze could handle...except for the swollen rivers on the return...she's scared shit of water...& she wouldn't like being without her hair curler for more than a couple of days

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Portena says on Dec 30, 2007, 17:36:

I empathesize with your 65 year old squeeze and wanting to be stylish despite the rough conditions.

I feel better! I can smile at it now, I feel better. Ohhhh, better! Gnarls Barkley

0 funny, 0 helpful.