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Ciudad Perdida

Trip report for the Lost City

Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City) is located near Santa Marta in the Colombian mountains, the Sierra Nevada. It was built over a period of about five hundred years before the Spaniards turned up, after that it was abandoned and lost to the jungle. It was rediscovered in the 1970’s, it has been excavated and restored by the Colombian government. It consists of uncut stone work and is a vast site of stairs and round platforms where the wooden huts and “temples�? were. In the 1990’s there were organised trips to the Ciudad Perdida on foot, in 2003 a group of tourists were captured by guerrillas and held for three months. None were harmed or ransomed, it was all a publicity stunt. At that time the area was taken over by coca planters and “policed�? by para-militaries, private armies funded by the drug barons. After that the area was cleared by the Colombian army and coca production has ended, the area is guarded by the Colombian army at present. The Ciudad Perdida is pristine when you get there, no kiosks, no souvenir sellers not even any guards, you really feel like Indiana Jones discovering it for the first time.

To get there you either go by helicopter or you walk there. This is my trip report about the walk that took place during the first week of November 2006.

First I must say that my trip was one of the most incredible things I have ever done and I strongly recommend it to you all. Both the walk and the Lost City were superb. Secondly I must say that it is incredibly dangerous, the walk is rough and you risk breaking a leg every day and there are stretches where if you fall you will do yourself serious harm – it is very slippery. The trip is also specifically mentioned by the Foreign Office (UK Government) as not safe, no reasons are given but I assume that this is because of the possibility of kidnap by the guerrillas.

Risk assessment: I consider that the risk of kidnap is minimal, I would be happier with para-militaries than the boy soldiers of the Colombian army. Physically you should be in good shape with good footwear, if you are scared of heights don’t go. I am but was able to overcome my fear – but I was frightened. Because the area is not approved by my government any insurance is invalid so if you break a leg or worse you’re on your own. There is yellow fever and malaria which can be prevented and dengue which can’t. There weren’t many mosquitoes about ten around me day and night, they didn’t bother me. Good mosquito nets are provided.

The trip is for six days and five nights, fully inclusive and costs 440,000 pesos. I booked at the Hospederia Casa Familiar, Calle 10c No 2-14 www.hospederiacasafamiliar.freeservers.com where a single room costs 14,000 pesos I recommend the hotel as a basic clean family run hotel, it is opposite the infamous Miramar backpackers hostel located in the heart of the red light district but close to the beach. I felt very safe in that area, children play in the street at night. Or you can book at the tourist office near the main square. On the trek I was given the option of paying another 100,000 pesos for another day and night with a different route back, instead of retracing my steps. This is very worthwhile but is even tougher than the main trip but still do-able. They supply porters who do the cooking and setting up of the camp and mules (mulas) that carry the gear. So you only have to carry your own personal belongings and water. The campsites are basic but have proper flush toilets, showers and a roof over everything. You sleep in hammocks, everyone sleeps well after a day’s walking. The food is wonderful and lots of it. The water is untreated taken from streams and rivers, I was shocked at this but I suffered no illness, it means you don’t have to carry much water during the day. The pace is set by the group, you only walk for half of the day so I never felt rushed.

When to go: even if it is dry in Santa Marta it rains up in the mountains so any month is fine. For my trip Santa Marta was dry and sunny and out of season so cheap, on the trek it rained in the afternoon but was dry during the morning when we were out walking. Also the next week was the Miss Colombia election in nearby Cartagena.

What to take: you are provided with a list of things to take which isn’t that accurate, you don’t need a sleeping bag as blankets are provided although a sheet sleeping bag would be useful, I don’t know how often anything is washed. A one litre water bottle, a 1.5 litre PET bottle is just as good and lighter. Toilet paper is provided at the site, on the trail I preferred to use water. I took a wide necked 0.75 litre water bottle to pee into during the night (well I am fifty five years old) this meant I didn’t have to leave the safety of my mosquito net. I took a small bottle of talcum powder to put on my feet and did not regret doing so.

During the day your clothes will get soaked by your sweat or by the rain. Any wet clothes will never dry out in the humidity although there is plenty of space to hang out your clothes at the camp site. So at camp you change into your dry clothes, make sure that these never get wet by carrying them in two plastic bags – there is a real risk of dropping your pack in a river, plus the rain.

The trek consists of crossing ridges so you are either going up or down steep slopes, the path is muddy and slippery with lots of rocks. It is very important to have footwear that you can trust to give a good grip and give a comfortable walk. There are lots of rivers to ford so have some waterproof sandals to change into, the rivers are deep and fast flowing so there is a danger of getting swept away but no danger of drowning. You walk for about six hours a day. There are mosquitoes about day and night so I wore long sleeved shirts and long quick drying trousers. It is hot so thin stuff. Others wore shorts, tee shirts and flip flops for the trek so these are only recommendations, you know best. Carrying a heavy pack is a bore so cut right back on stuff, a little hotel bar of soap is plenty there seemed to be soap available most nights. A good torch is essential but take a lightweight LED one.

I would recommend that you try out all your kit in the Parque Tayrona by visiting the Pueblocito in the park a few days before the trip, it will also get you fit. You will need to take two litres of water and food.

But above all, do the trip to the lost city.

By el flaco on Dec 7, 2006, 01:56 in Travel tips.

goin_south says on Dec 7, 2006, 04:03:

that is an incredible report, el flaco I have never taken time to read a report about the lost city, like this, because I could never before envision myself doing this, even though I am game for things like serious white water rafting trips, and hiking in the Rockies. But I have to admit I passed once about three miles into the trail on the Napali Coastline on the north/northwest shore of Kauai, because we came to some places where one mis-step could have sent your butt down about 2000 feet to the shoreline, looking for the Hidden Beach.

But, your report has me a little dreamy-eyed. THANKS for sharing all that.

Maybe I missed it in reading, but wondering: IS this a ONE-day hike up? one day, up and back? more than one day both ways? ??

If you don't mind sharing, what is your age and general fitness level, in regards to the ease or difficulty of this hike?

'what does it mean, when one of you (colombians) tell another: YOU WERE NOT/ARE NOT. 'COLOMBIAN ENOUGH'?? jejeje..a mixture, I think, of stupidity mixed with a false sense of arrogance.. How 'colombian' do you have to be? to be 'colombian enough

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el flaco says on Dec 7, 2006, 06:21:

reply Hidden in the text is my age of 55 and the duration of six days five nights. I am fit and skinny "el flaco" but I don't do sport. I'm sure that you can do it, even if it takes you seven hours instead of six hours they'll wait for you. I forgot to mention that the trip departs Wednesday mornings from the Miramar hostel with a maximum group size of about 20 (minimum 4?). Go for it.

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litost says on Dec 7, 2006, 07:04:

Thanx for the report flaco!

I will surely be doing that hike sometime in the next few years, just gotta find the time... I'm more familiar myself with the Parque de los Nevados and may write something about it soon, have you been?

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andresumana says on Dec 7, 2006, 10:33:

Tks for sharing it i was traying to send you an email but in your profile is not possible to send you emails. i just dont like to apear like a spam guy.
i realy enjoyied your report, now im new in PHB cuz im trying to find athmospheres where the colombia issue is the main reason, why? i just finished a website that is meant for all those writers who want to share their expeirence or their living here.
so if you want to publish it in a e-magazine just tell me and if you want we can add some pictures and videos too

cheers,

Andres
http://www.colombia4you.com

http://www.colombia4you.com

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Mr. Hollywood says on Dec 7, 2006, 10:45:

Curious Whenever I read a report about the ciudad perdida the writers say very little about the archaeological site itself. Can you go into more detail about that? or is the journey really the best part and the Ciudad just a reason to go there?

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Peter (Moderator) says on Dec 7, 2006, 13:44:

Great tripreport! Thanks!
Great tripreport! Thanks!

Poor but snappy

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el flaco says on Dec 8, 2006, 02:33:

reply All travellers agree that the highlight of the trip is the trek and not the site itself, although I would not dismiss the site which is impressive and interesting. However… the fact is nothing is known about the purpose of the site, it hasn’t been used for over a thousand years, and all the wooden structures have gone leaving only circular platforms about ten metres across with often impressive stairs leading to them. The amount of work involved is incredible and done with care, however the stones aren’t cut in any way so it is like the dry stone work you can see in Ireland, just rocks piled up. It is a very extensive site with a lot still waiting to be cleared of the jungle.

The original indians still live in the area in circular huts so they were able to help the archaeologists identify the purpose of objects found. The supposition is that families would congregate there and live there for short periods for …? There are graves that are for important people only that are assumed to be priests and not leaders.

Photos don’t do justice to the place. There is a good museum at the main square in Santa Marta (free!) with models explaining it all.

But really it is trekking through the Colombian jungle with porters and pack horses (well mules) not forgetting the guide with his machete and the small group. There’s a little Indiana Jones in all of us. The path is challenging but within everyone’s capabilities. Obviously the fauna and flora are impressive.

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Mr. Hollywood says on Dec 8, 2006, 03:05:

Gracias por su respuesta Thanks, sounds like a great adventure.

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goin_south says on Dec 8, 2006, 03:35:

I can't remember anyone posting photos of the lost city. I guess everyone assumes, it's no 'Machu Peechu', but isn't part of the attraction just that it is so isolated? and, how old is this place believed to be? Any Photos? or, resources for photos?

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Peter (Moderator) says on Dec 8, 2006, 06:23:

Yea, the thing with Machu Pichu is that it's of course really impressive but it's so full of tourists and commercialized. Where as this is really a "Lost City", not a popular tourist destination where you might run into your mom.

Poor but snappy

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litost says on Dec 8, 2006, 07:03:

galecito, you might've already tried but do a Google Image search and you come up with some pretty cool pics of Ciudad Perdida. The links send you to different sites, usually trip reports of foreigners who have done the hike.

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bickerss says on Dec 10, 2006, 01:13:

Photos of the site http://www.worldisround.com/articles/249068/index.html

Galecito - check here, you can see many photos of the actual site.

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goin_south says on Dec 10, 2006, 04:50:

thanks bickerss; a couple of those pics look like they should have a "flagpole, for the 19th hole" stuck in the middle of those greens. lol

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bickerss says on Dec 10, 2006, 05:52:

No probs, but the best thing with the site is most of it is not cleared and you have plenty of time to wander around by yourself. So if u want to fight ur way through the jungle, you can follow barely know ''trails'' etc. Was a great trip.

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webmanco says on Dec 28, 2006, 10:10:

"The Lost City" It would be a good "things to do in 2007", Thanks Flaco for sharing

(I really hate it when women get their panties all bunched up their butt, they can get so cranky!) Poor butt happy

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Jebediah says on Jan 1, 2007, 17:40:

Cuidad Perdida I too did this trek, it was amazing!

I would say a general level of fitness would be required as there are a few nice hill climbs to contend with, not to mention the final steps leading up to the Lost City. We had a dog tag along with us for 2 days and then decide to return back to his village!

Would definately recommend it, the trek, the scenery, i loved everything about it, There were para-militaries on the trek, who were all friendly.

If anyone has any q's dont hesitate to drop me a line!

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p e r says on Jan 8, 2007, 10:05:

Cuidad Perdida weather in april? Hi all!

Planning a trip to Colombia in april. Would the weather etc be ok for the hike to Cuidad Perdida?

We allso plan to go to Cartagena and San Andres/Providencia. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks! //Per

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ricknole says on Jan 8, 2007, 13:06:

cuidad perdida in April My girlfriend just came back from Tairona and Santa Marta.. I just came back from Colombia (bogota and Medellin). The weather is prety much the same all year round... but Santa Marta is warmer. You can add Santa Marta you your MSN Weather Lookup and get daily updates. I live in Florida but I am trying to go to Tairona for mar. 29 - April 7.

When are you going to be there?

Ricknole

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p e r says on Jan 9, 2007, 12:16:

Thanks Ricknole! At first we were planning to go to Leticia and do some hiking there, but it looks like there is a lot of rainin going on there during april.
We probably will be in Santa Marta/Taganga instead, somewhere around april 2-10. Hopefully we will be able to do the Ciudad Perdida Hike, and some diving.
After that we will move on to San Andres / Providencia and stay there till around april 20. And after that a couple of days or a week in cartagena before we go back home to sweden.
These are only plans, but hopefully we will make it happen.

What are your plans?

/Per

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Keller Shields says on Apr 26, 2007, 20:34:

cuidad perdida Okay, so I really want to do this trip. If it leaves on a Wednesday, how long will it take me to get there from bogota and who can I chat with to give me the specific details of everything?

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lochdhu says on May 25, 2007, 13:15:

Hi Keller Shields,based on Hi Keller Shields,

based on what I know, they have a group that leaves every 2 days,
the 6 day trip costs 460k cop, and the 7 day trip costs 600k cop.

you really need to be a top physical shape to make this trip, as there is a lot of up hill hiking that will kill and test the limits of your leg muscles. I made this trip in March, but I am sad to say I was unable to complete the trip, because my legs couldn't take it any more, thats what I get for sitting behind a computer for 5 years and not excersizing,

here is a link to the group that arranges the trips

http://www.myspace.com/hotelmiramar

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bickerss says on May 28, 2007, 02:13:

Keller, the trip is 6 days and leavs about three times a week from hotel mirimar. It is a very easy hike as you only walk about 3 hrs a day and go at a snails pace - we had real fatties on our trip and they made it alive. U stay two nights at the actual site and everything is included on the price. U only need sneakers for the walk (i did mine in thongs) and u stop each day for a swim. Food is ok, but basic, and take water puritabs as u fill up from the streams.

You can book it from any hostel in the area, or from Turcol the actual agency that runs it. Easiet from hote mirimar. Recommend u stay at Casa de felip ein Taganga, 5 kms away from Santa Marta. All u need to take is a spare set of clothes, mossy cream and ur snacks etc. Sleeping bag mossy nets were provided. The trip is a very wet one, either from heat/hummidity, rain or swiming.

The actual site is realy cool and you pass some indian tribes on the way. It is the most enjoyable trek i have done.

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gringoincolombia says on Jun 9, 2007, 21:18:

Be careful. Check the current situation. A group from the school I teach in was harrassed by paramilitaries when they made the hike in January. I did it in December and had no problems, but my students were asked for their watches, jewelry, etc. by teenage boys with automatic weapons. Nothing bad happened except that they were scared to death, and that's no fun. I heard that the King of Spain visited the site last month (on a detour from the language conference in Cartagena) and that fighting broke out between the FARC and the paras while he was there. I did not see that in any official news, so I can't swear it's true.

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gringoincolombia says on Jun 9, 2007, 21:20:

Of course.... Of course, the agency that books the tours, Turcol, is supposedly owned by the paramilitaries, so at least you have that going for you. If you do the trip, ask for Edwin Rey as your guide. You will never stop laughing during the whole trip if you can understand his costeño Spanish.

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