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Cartagena or Santa Marta?

I'll be in Colombia in November and have the good fortunes of having a personal driver while in Bogota and the surrounding area (I plan on going to Villa de Leyva on a side trip). However, I'm interested in flying up to the coast but haven't decided on where yet. Any suggestions on either Cartagena or Santa Marta? Are both equally beautiful with nice beaches or is there a big difference? Also, would it be feasible to take a bus between the two if I wanted to see both cities? I'll only be on the coast for 3 days. I've never been to Colombia so I'm really looking forward to it!Thanks for your help.

Oh, one more thing... any advice on where I can find decently priced emeralds in Bogota? I've already been warned to not buy any off the street...

By travelingirl on Oct 28, 2007, 22:55 in Travel tips. AddThis Social Bookmark Button


thur says on Oct 29, 2007, 02:08:

The historical centre of Cartagena is a must-see, I'd say. The beach of Cartagena itself ("Bocagrande" area) isn't particulary nice at all. However, a boat trip away are the "Islas del Rosario", which are very nice. Cartagena is better if you wish to add some culture and nice colonial architecture, along with an "ok" beach and a side trip to Rosario.
Santa Marta beach isn't special, most tourists stay at the "Rodadero" area which is where all the hotels are and the beach is "ok". A little boat trip away is "Playa Blanca" which has better scenery (white sand & clear water), a little bus (around 15-20 mins.) & boat trip away is the village of "Taganga" with a beautiful beach as well. Santa Marta/ Rodadero is better if your main objective is sun, beach & relaxation on an "ok, but slightly better" beach with a side trip to Taganga.
Personally, if you don't know either, I'd recommend Cartagena. Not for the beach, but because it's "Cartagena"; Colombia's best known colonial city. And people will ask, if you mention that you went to the coast, whether you saw Cartagena with its murrals, the castle, the historical centre, etc. Seeing you have 3 days I wouldn't recommend visiting both.
Greetings,

- www.pbase.com/thur

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bickerss says on Oct 29, 2007, 02:35:

Cartagena is awsome, additionally, in nov they have the miss colombia selection - so lots of carnival type capers going on. It is easy to catch a bus to Santa Marta 4 hrs away. Most hotels will offer you the faster shared mini van cab. Given you only have 3 days I would though, stay in Cartagena.

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robi666 says on Oct 29, 2007, 04:51:

Just three days? Cartagena. A must see.

"I am a citizen of the most beautiful nation on earth. A nation whose laws are harsh yet simple, a nation that never cheats, which is immense and without borders, where life is lived in the present."

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Gator says on Oct 29, 2007, 05:26:

I, also, would agree-first trip to Colombia Cartagena is a must see.

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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jaramillo says on Oct 29, 2007, 06:34:

Cartagena is the choice. But calling the Bocagrande beach "OK" is almost a stretch. The beach is not clean, or particularly beautiful. The sand is dirt brown and people selling stuff are a pest. Plus Bocagrande is overdeveloped. If you like Bocagrande you'd probably think Daytona beach is gorgeous. Better to find a hotel with a nice pool (I mean it). But as thur said, the Islas del Rosario are worth the trip, and the beaches there are much nicer.

If you a re a beach person then Santa Marta is better. El Rodadero proper is so-so but the beautiful beaches of the Tayrona National Park are close by.

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robi666 says on Oct 29, 2007, 06:43:

So well explained, Jaramillo!

"I am a citizen of the most beautiful nation on earth. A nation whose laws are harsh yet simple, a nation that never cheats, which is immense and without borders, where life is lived in the present."

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Morrongo says on Oct 29, 2007, 07:21:

Yes of course you can take a bus between the two.There are day trips to Santa Marta from Cartagena if you are push for time.Three days is not alot...just enough to get a flavour

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travelingirl says on Oct 29, 2007, 13:16:

Thank you everyone for the comments! I had a feeling Cartagena would be the place to go. I get a bit bored with the beach so I wouldn't want to spend all my time on one... therefore Cartagena might be best so I can tour all the historical sites. Any mid-range hotel recommendations? I don't want to stay in a hostel, but not the most expensive either.

Around her hair she wore a yellow ribbon...

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Mr. Hollywood says on Oct 29, 2007, 13:33:

I think you need to define "mid-range" by how much you're willing to pay.

There are a number of decent hotels in Cartagena for relatively moderate prices but I don't know of any with a pool. The really nice hotels with beautiful pools are $$$$, like the Santa Clara, Santa Teresa, Aqua, etc.

Cartagena is HOT and sweaty and definitely not a nice beach.

That said, I agree it's the place you should go, because the old city is so beautiful and unique.

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travelingirl says on Oct 29, 2007, 14:48:

I'm not set on a price, but perhaps the 200 US dollars or less per night range for a room with double beds. I'm fine with the hotel not having a pool.

Around her hair she wore a yellow ribbon...

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aztec says on Oct 29, 2007, 15:46:

I am a gringo and I have stayed in both. They are different and offer different flavors of Colombia. If you have the time you should try both. Otherwise, go to Cartagena and see one of the worlds treasures!

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Mr. Hollywood says on Oct 29, 2007, 15:49:

You'll do fine for that price point.

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Gator says on Oct 30, 2007, 08:35:

Mrs, Gator and I can, without reservation, recommend the Hotel 3 Banderas on Calle Cochera del Hobo in the old walled city close to the Santa Teresa (http://www.hotel3banderas.com/).. The Casa la Fe is also nice. Cost is about say $60 USD. Couple of restaurants are Juan del Mar Restaurante, Plaza San Diego, Club De Pesca for sea food, try the Pargo Rojo, La Olla on San Martine in Bocagramnde, the wife's favorite. If only the best is good enough try La Vitrola in the Old City. To see list The Monastery La Popa,The San Felipe de Barajas Fortress and Las Bovedas(Old City) the dungeons now shops with surprisingly reasonable prices. One night book a Rumba Chiva, which is a old bus called a chiva with a band, booze that tours the city raising hell.

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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francis says on Oct 30, 2007, 17:15:

The Hotel El Almirante is nice and has a private pool it is in the tourist Rodadero area, close to shops and clubs. It is not very pricey. If you buy a package it also includes breakfast. You can also check out Hotel Las Americas it js a taxi drive away from the historic center and Rodadero. This is a very nice hotel with its own private beach. The last time I was there I bought a package from Hotel Decameron to go to Las Islas del Rosario. The package was about $35 USD it included food, beverages, snorkeling and transportation to and from Las Islas del Rosario- Playa Blanca. The beach was beautiful, with white sand, clear water. I highly recommend it! Have a great time in Cartagena!

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robi666 says on Oct 30, 2007, 17:19:

francis... are you sure that you're not confusing El Rodadero with Cartagena?

"I am a citizen of the most beautiful nation on earth. A nation whose laws are harsh yet simple, a nation that never cheats, which is immense and without borders, where life is lived in the present."

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Gator says on Oct 30, 2007, 18:52:

"tourist Rodadero area, " ???

Perhaps you mean the Bocagrande area? Personally, with only a three-day stay, I would choose to stay in the "Old Wlled City."

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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travelingirl says on Oct 31, 2007, 00:39:

Thanks, Gator! The pictures of Hotel 3 Banderas are lovely! I hope they aren't booked because when I looked at expedia.com Casa la Fe had no availability but Hotel 3 wasn't listed on their site. Hopefully my friend in country will be able to find out. I look forward to visiting all the historical sites mentioned as well.

Oh, can anyone recommend an area in Bogota for me to go emerald shopping? Also, do I haggle with the merchant and immediately offer 50% off the suggested price or are the prices set?

Around her hair she wore a yellow ribbon...

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Gator says on Oct 31, 2007, 07:50:

Before you go visit this site: http://www.emeralds.com/education/history.html

Bogotá, Visit the La Candelaria Historical Dstrict downtown. This is the center of the city with the beautifully preserved colonial architecture. When you leave this area look for Carrera Septima the main thoroughfare that takes you from the Plaza de Bolivar back to downtown. Loaded with shops large and small selling emerald jewelry.

DO NOT BUY FROM VENDORS ON THE STREETS OR IN THE PARKS. YOU CAN BARGAIN AND IT IS ALMOST EXPECTED.

Be sure to visit the Museo del Oro downtown and visit the top of Monserrate for a spectacular view of Bogotá

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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Mr. Hollywood says on Oct 31, 2007, 08:08:

Travelingirl, Hotel 3 Banderas has a website http://www.hotel3banderas.com/

I've never stayed there but several friends have and also said great things. I usually stay down the street from there at the Santa Clara.

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Gator says on Oct 31, 2007, 12:57:

Travelgirl, either e-mail them or telephone the 3 Banderas. They will reply. Same with the Casa de Fe. The smaller hotels do not keep updated on the usual travel sites so contact them personally

We stayed once at the Santa Clara but did not think it was worth the price. $285 tax USD a night.

For that kind of $$$$ we prefer the Hotel Aqua on Calle de Ayos. BUT a treck to the Santa Clara for the breakfast buffet is well worth the effort. http://www.hotelagua.com.co

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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MaSep says on Nov 1, 2007, 20:16:

None of them this days is raining a lot!

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travelingirl says on Nov 1, 2007, 23:17:

Thanks, Hollywood and Gator. I emailed my friend and she's supposed to get in touch with those hotels about their availability soon. Yeah, I don't think I want to fork over $300/night at the Santa Clara, although I have heard it is very nice. But judging by the photos, these other places are pretty and clean as well.

Around her hair she wore a yellow ribbon...

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Mr. Hollywood says on Nov 2, 2007, 10:19:

Last time I stayed at the Santa Clara it came to about $230 a night.

That's still a lot for a Colombian hotel but I was there with kids and the pool would be a bargain at twice the price.

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Gator says on Nov 2, 2007, 14:00:

Mr. H, agreed! BEST damn pool in Cartagena-BTW was it $230 plus the tax?

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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NJ C Rep says on Nov 2, 2007, 17:43:

What is the word on the street on teh Cartagena Hilton overall (including the pool and the beach?)

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Gator says on Nov 2, 2007, 19:33:

There are a LOT better choices. If you want the Hilton check into the one in Miami-lots of Spanish spoken and you save the airfare

"Brevior Sltare Cum Deformibus Mulieribus Est Vita!" .

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nueva york bombero says on Nov 3, 2007, 11:04:

Hey guys! I'm heading there the first week of January and staying for 11 days. I was thinking a good breakup could be 5 days in Cartagena, a day in Barranquilla and the rest in Santa Marta (4 days). Any ideas???
Thanks!

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Mr. Hollywood says on Nov 3, 2007, 14:22:

I'm seeing $231, right now, on their website. It's with a 15 day cancellation policy. It runs almost a $100 more per night with a 24 hour cancellation. But if you know you're going on certain dates the cancellation policy isn't an issue. Or buy trip insurance.

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Clinman says on Dec 6, 2007, 11:35:

I stayed at the Cartagena Hilton in both July and November. I used rewards points and stayed in some of the better rooms so I might be a little biased. The people at the reservations desk all speak good English and are very professional. The pool area has 3 different pools to choose and is quite acceptable. The hotel does open up to the beach but the vendors will be waiting. The beds at the Hilton are suberb. I believe the rack rate is around $175-200 range. If you walk out the front door of Hilton and take a left for 200 yards there is a nice quiet little resturant called the Tropical which is built on a deck over the small lagoon. A meal for two with a drink will come to about 60K pesos and is best a night.

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2bad4u says on Dec 6, 2007, 15:29:

Cartagena

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