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Barranquilla: Carnival

Barranquilla’s carnival is held every year during the four days preceding Ash Wednesday (thus from the Saturday to the Tuesday).

But, apart from these four “official” days, there are plenty of things to do and see BEFORE…

If you’re planning to attend the carnival, here are a few things that may help you:

The pre-carnival festivities of King MOMO start 6 weeks before the official carnival: Each district elects its own Queen - with an overall Queen for Barranquilla. She is the one who reads the “decrees” to have fun, dance and be merry. From that date on, fiestas are held each Fridays and Saturdays in places called “casetas” (dance floors).

On the Friday night of the week-end preceding the official carnival, is the “Noche de Guacherna”, a huge procession with many folkloric groups where everyone is carrying a “farol” (lantern).
The following day (Saturday) is the “Batalla de maizena” (another procession with a “twist” – I’ll let you discover which one!)

The highlights of the “official” carnival are:

Saturday: “Batalla de flores”. A huge procession with all the Queens. And the floats, naturally.
Sunday: “Gran parada”. This gives the opportunity for many folkloric groups to play the various dances and music of Colombia
Monday: “Festival de orquestas” (over two days). The “congo del oro” is awarded to the best group.
Tuesday: Last day of the carnival. Women dressed as men (and vice versa) mourn the death of JOSELITO (according to lore, this fellow danced and made love non-stop for 4 days and died on the last day).

The above is a VERY brief glimpse of what happens! I haven’t even mentioned la “Parada de Fantasia” and MANY other events.

It is also useful to know that the festivities don’t only take place in Barranquilla, but also in Santa Marta, Cartagena, Riohacha, Monteria, Santo Toma, etc…

P.S.: The following video clip is quite informative (it's over 12 minutes long!)



Have fun!

By Darloup on Dec 12, 2008, 19:24 in Friendly Talkzone.


goin_south says on Dec 12, 2008, 19:42:

""JOSELITO (according to lore, this fellow danced and made love non-stop for 4 days and died on the last day)."".
................... Surely, this fella must be... el primo DeLModefoque ;-)

nothin I say is to be takn for my words, but rather for the words of Sailor Jerry.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

bickerss says on Dec 13, 2008, 07:47:

Wear your old clothes to the parades, and on the street, and expect to get flour bombed to hell - especially as a gringo.

Investment Strategy - buying when others are crying!! Offloading when others are gloating!!!

0 funny, 1 helpful.

Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Dec 13, 2008, 09:07:

Useful link: http://www.elheraldo.com.co/ELHERALDO/carnaval.asp

(click on "programacion" to have a full list of the 2008 events - this will give you a fair idea of what to expect in 2009).

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

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goin_south says on Dec 13, 2008, 14:29:

When is the carnival?

I think it's the same as the Mardi Gras here in South Louisiana, but...
I don't know when that is this year, either.
It's different every year.

nothin I say is to be takn for my words, but rather for the words of Sailor Jerry.

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goin_south says on Dec 13, 2008, 14:59:

I did.
And, I'm not catholic.
Nor, did I have a calendar close.
And, I knew some empathetic soul would help me :-))

And, Thanks.

nothin I say is to be takn for my words, but rather for the words of Sailor Jerry.

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Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Dec 14, 2008, 08:08:

That's the official website of the Barranquilla's carnival: http://www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org/previo/default.html

And here is the FULL program for 2009:
http://www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org/previo/programacion.html

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

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el flaco says on Dec 15, 2008, 02:18:

A good post, but can you give details of how and where to get tickets. I found that you couldn't just turn up and buy a ticket.

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Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Dec 22, 2008, 13:18:

Hola el flaco,

I assume you're referring to the "palcos", those elevated tribunes alongside the routes.

These tribunes are all privately organized (the carnival committee is still handing out the licences as I write this).

Normally, you'll be able to buy tickets to these palcos 2 weeks before the event(s) - and not before.

Lots of people complained in 2008 that tickets for these palcos were way too expensive and the sad news is that, in 2009, they'll be even more expensive.

For exemple, in 2009, a single palco ticket for two events (e.g. "Batalla de flores" and "Gran Parada") should cost a minimum of 150 000 COP - and that's a minimum! You'll also be able to purchase palco tickets which include food and beverages for about 300 000 COP.

But, I repeat myself, those tickets will normally be available only 2 weeks before the events (and not before).

Have you actually considered joining one of these processions? Not only will you get the best view, but you'll actually be an active participant - history in the making!

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

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Monpirri says on Dec 23, 2008, 10:59:

Thank you!

"Anyone who still thinks that Colombia is not a gastronomical paradise needs to have their head examined." Darloup

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cfG21 says on Jan 4, 2009, 21:20:

i love carnaval! Thumbs up for darloup actually putting champeta music on.

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nueva york bombero says on Jan 5, 2009, 09:27:

I plan on going this year.... Can you recommend a place to stay?
Budget to mid- priced, in a safe area, maybe near the beach???
Thanks--

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nueva york bombero says on Jan 5, 2009, 12:49:

ok thanks.... if i can't book something, i will wing it....thanks.

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Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 6, 2009, 12:35:

Bombero, for all that it's worth, you might wish to visit my blog page at: http://www.darloup.com/blog/?page_id=420

Sorry, it's in French, but it should not matter that much as the content is fairly straight-forward (a listing of most hotels and apartohotels in Barranquilla).

Bear in mind that the classified ads in Barranquilla's local newspaper ("El Heraldo") can be useful too. You'll find them here: http://www.elheraldo.com.co/ELHERALDO/clasificados/propiedades.asp?bus...

Good luck!

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Saltador says on Jan 6, 2009, 13:56:

Just a word to the wise though, the road to hell is littered with gringos who went to carnival to have fun, and left thinking "Wow, that sucked"...
Not me mind you, I've never been and have no desire after the stories I've heard...

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Saltador says on Jan 6, 2009, 16:38:

Darloup,
Sorry I was a little blunt, I realize that was kind of harsh. And as I said, I have never been, so I do lose the right to really comment on it. BUT....
A friend of mine, who's father is from Barranquilla, was very excited to attend carnival about three years ago. He was the one who reported that it left a lot to be desired. Among his complaints:
1. Person on the street was shot (dispute) right before his eyes, 5 feet away from him and his family.
2. Fathers wallet and his uncles were pickpocketed.
3. Fight/near riot in a restaraunt between his family and a group of drunks who did not like the fact that they would occasionally speak english.
4. Plastered with the "fun powder" a little too heavily for their liking, presumably for the same reason.
5. Too many people, not enough banos for the amount of cervesa consumed.
6 Etc etc etc.
As I stated, I've never been. And never will. Have fun :-)

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goin_south says on Jan 6, 2009, 16:47:

It's too late now, but...
you could have been in Pasto for Carnaval de Blanco y Negro,
this past week....
where they seemed to have alot of fun, and with little trouble.

nothin I say is to be takn for my words, but rather for the words of Sailor Jerry.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 6, 2009, 18:08:

Actually, Saltador, you now raise a few fair points...

It's important to understand, once a year, Barranquilleros go beserk - and I mean beserk... I've never encountered such a radical change in attitude and behaviour...

I won't even dream/start trying to understand the reasons behind this...

To answer your points;

1) True, witnessing a "live" shooting is a cold shower. A VERY cold shower. Very bad luck indeed although you'd agree this is not necessarily linked to the carnival per se. Just a question of being in the wrong place at the wrong time...
2) You're right about pickpockets! This is the worst time of the year in BQ. Hundreds of thousands of people concentrated in small areas - an ideal feeding ground for the "carteristas". The solution? Accept/understand the risks and don't carry any valuables on you
3) Again, an unfortunate occurence which should not dampen the overall "be merry" spirit of the carnival
4) Hey, this is supposed to be part of the "over the top" attitude! ;-)
5) True, the overall organization leaves a lot to be desired. The 2008 carnival was actually one of the worst in terms of organization. Lots of people complained about the havoc. The carnival can inded be sheer hell, although you're guaranteed 100% authenticity. As I wrote above, it's really a giant mad house and one has got to be prepared for that...

I'm not trying to be apologetic, but simply trying to explain things... Maybe the carnival is the only outlet when stressed people get a yearly opportunity to vent off steam. Most vent off steam dancing to the point of sheer exhaustion. Unfortunately, a few drink too much and do not behave in a befitting manner. Maybe the "pagan" aspect of the carnival has something to do too...

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Saltador says on Jan 6, 2009, 18:56:

Darloup,
It's cool. I'm sure it can be a lot of fun. It's just sometimes people may get an idea in their heads about Carnival, and reality slaps them in the face. Just wanted to warn people about what they "may" encounter, it might not all be fun and roses...but given the right circumstances, it could be great.

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Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 10, 2009, 12:26:

To make the Barranquilla carnival "safe", it's now forbidden to carry a firearm in Atlantico...

Source:
http://www.elheraldo.com.co/ELHERALDO/BancoConocimiento/0/0prohiben_po...

A stupid measure which will expire in two days (13th of January) whereas the carnival will take place in February...!!!

I'm missing something here...

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

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Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 12, 2009, 07:58:

Do you have what it take to compete in the 2009 Barranquilla Carnival ?!

It's not too late, inscriptions are still opened for the best costume contest.

Full details (in Spanish only) available at:
http://www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org/previo/noti_09_41.html

Remember, kick-off is January 24th....

Three ways to enjoy the carnival:

1) Be in the streets (you won't see much, but 100% festive ambiance guaranteed)
2) Take part in the processions (exhausting, but authentic)
3) Purchase a "palco" ticket to have a great elevated view of what is going on

Again, be on the look-out for pickpockets (no worse than in London's Oxford street in Summer), but ALWAYS a problem for the unwary.

Have fun!

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

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nueva york bombero says on Jan 12, 2009, 11:33:

It almost sounds like you're a promoter for this event Darloup!
How much of a cut do you get off the Dollar Aguilas???

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Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 13, 2009, 19:17:

More Carnival info:

"Guillermo Polo, secretario de Gobierno Distrital, reconoce la importancia de las verbenas carnavaleras y aclara que, a pesar que durante todo 2008 les negaron permisos por la inseguridad que a veces acarrean, no se ha contemplado restringirlas en Carnaval, por su importancia histórica en las fiestas.

¿Están prohibidos absolutamente los picó?

Reconozco que durante 2008 prohibimos casi de manera absoluta las verbenas en 12 barrios, en los cuales las estadísticas señalan que tenemos resumido el 85% de los delitos. No solo es por recomendaciones de la Policía, sino por exigencias de la comunidad que envía innumerables derechos de petición solicitando que no las permitamos. Además, si la solicitud de permiso del baile implica el cierre de una vía, casi de manera general la prohibimos. Durante 2009 seguiremos con esa misma política, siendo muy rigurosos.

¿Y en Carnaval?

En épocas de carnaval habrá un pare en esa política de negar permisos a las verbenas. Entendemos que es una época excepcional, donde hay una especie de permiso para el desorden, que debemos ordenar en materia de seguridad, más no restringir. Lo que se va a hacer es expedir una reglamentación antes del 20 de enero, en dónde se señalen los parámetros a los que tiene que acogerse cualquier ciudadano que quiera que se le apruebe el permiso para realizar un baile en su cuadra, sea con picó o no. Debe garantizar la seguridad, no violar las normas de contaminación sonora y no ocasionar problemas de movilidad.

Por la inseguridad que ocasionan, ¿Se ha contemplado prohibirlas?

Es una barbaridad pensar prohibir las verbenas y bailes de Carnaval. La gente puede tener tranquilidad que lejos de querer ponerle cortapisas a la expresión de alegría de barranquilleros en las fiestas, queremos es promoverla, y garantizarle la seguridad.

Los picoteros dicen que no causan inseguridad

No se trata de estigmatizar a nadie, pero nosotros lo podemos demostrar. No estamos señalando a los picoteros, sino a unas verbenas que se realizan en unos barrios puntuales. A los picoteros les digo que primero está el interés general, y que los permitiremos donde determinemos que no se pone en riesgo la seguridad de los participantes de la fiesta.

Otra medida impopular es la restricción a las sillas en desfiles ¿Qué se definió?

Si la Secretaría de Salud da el visto bueno para pasar la Guacherna de la carrera 44 a la 43, demarcaremos sitios donde permitiremos sillas, pero si sigue por la 44, no se permitirán por el riesgo que representan. Reconocemos que es impopular, pero debemos garantizar la seguridad de los que bailan y asisten a los eventos. Además, no permitiremos que ciudadanos que pretenden explotar el espacio público demarquen zonas para ubicar sillas, puesto que el Distrito se encargará de hacerlo tras un estudio que comenzará esta semana."

Source:
http://www.elheraldo.com.co/ELHERALDO/BancoConocimiento/0/0en_carnaval...

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Miguel says on Jan 15, 2009, 19:25:

"Hey Bombero, Barranquilla only comes on the Colombian map once a year, so I find it normal to "promote" its unique attraction (who on earth would visit Barranquilla outside carnival time???).

Barranquilla doesn't have THAT much to offer... Its carnival being the exception! Please indulge me, I'm just trying to be informative here! ;-)"

Well Darloup, your "attempts" at trying to be "informative" fall short of the mark. Copy and paste from the lame ass EL HERALDO? Read "AL DIA", or as we locals like to call it "MAL DIA".

"There is nothing lower than the human race...except for the French." - Mark Twain 1878-79

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goin_south says on Jan 15, 2009, 22:31:

"we locals", esluelita?
jajaj

nothin I say is to be takn for my words, but rather for the words of Sailor Jerry.

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Desi1 (Moderator) (Trustee board) says on Jan 16, 2009, 11:13:

Miguel, if you think Darloup's info on the Carnival is "lame" you're welcome to post your own take on it. Instead of putting down his contribution please provide a better piece of info instead yourself.

A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 18, 2009, 08:40:

It's now possible to purchase advance tickets for the stands (palcos) which will be on Via 40 from this Web site: http://www.tuboleta.com/show.asp?code=PALCOS09

Amazingly enough, this site does NOT accept international debit/credit cards (sigh) - so get a Colombian friend to get the tickets for you!

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 21, 2009, 14:12:

Jeff, like any event in any country, whatever fun/pleasure/enjoyment you get out of it depends on your own involvment...

Remember that Carnivals (whether in Barranquilla or not) are PERSONAL (hence selfish) experiences. Most participants are only keen to vent off steam and feelings - participating in the carnival is often a private crusade which is not supposed to be shared (nor really understood by others).

As mere spectators, the carnival can thus be disappointing if we, as mere observers, can't go beyond the sheer colors and noises of the event... We must understand that sharing the carnival is like sharing a myriad of personal and very private experiences when, more often than not, we're simply voyeurs...

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Saltador says on Jan 22, 2009, 12:41:

jeff8875 is not the first to report the overenthusiasm of pelting the gringos. It pretty much boils down to some colombianos (not all) having pent up frustrations with the gringos coming down and "stealing" their women. This is their opportunity to strike back, albeit in a cowardly way. When you look at it that way you can understand it...were these same guys to man-up and confront you face to face, they would most likely end up with their asses kicked. So really you can't blame them...I prefer not to present them with the opportunity, and so will avoid these festivals like the plague.

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Cheers Terry says on Jan 22, 2009, 13:44:

I don't know why I'm seemingly immune from this "picking on gringos" thing, but I am. These photos show that I'm right in the thick of it with a camera, and believe me, no one is throwing shit on me. I took loads of photos - as you can see even getting entire families to pose together - but at the end of the day I only had a few miscellaneous splatters, that's all. I didn't even have to change clothes to go out on the town later that night. As Saltador mentions most of the instigators are little pussies and a warning glance easily convinced them to have their fun around me, and not on me.

Cheers,
Terry

Photobucket

Photobucket

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Cheers Terry says on Jan 22, 2009, 13:48:

This gal was my favourite scary, horny drunk.

I assume she knows Elmo.

Cheers,
Terry

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

0 funny, 0 helpful.

webmanco says on Jan 22, 2009, 18:11:

Thanks Darloup for the info. I migth go to Carnaval de Barranquilla, and yes I would go anytime and anywhere in Colombia, not matter if there is Carnaval or not.

No hay extremo cierto o verdadero, porque los extremos opacan, enruedan, (lavan cerebros) verdades. Yotas

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Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 29, 2009, 14:40:

There are many traditional costumes worn during the carnival, but one of the most interesting ones is the MONOCUCO.

This costume is synonymous with “anonymity”. You wear ample clothing (in order to hide whether you’re a man or a woman). You also wear a mask in order to hide your face.

The monocuco never speaks (not to betray his/her voice) or else tries to disguise his/her voice.

The monocuco costume was used in the past to enable lovers to meet in public, but whilst respecting their respective anonymity (not from each other, but from prying eyes!). For instance, they could thus dance together in public without fearing anyone bothering them since no-one would dare to breach the anonymity of their costume!

Here are typical monocuco costumes:



Next costume: The infamous MARIMONDA!

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

0 funny, 0 helpful.

Darloup (☼Travelguide writer) says on Jan 29, 2009, 18:19:

We often tend to forget that the carnival has deep pagan roots and that, during a few days, it gave many people an opportunity to smirk and belittle the Roman Catholic Church.

The “marimonda” costume is a typical and traditional costume widely used during the carnival.

Of course, the very name “marimonda” refers to a Colombian monkey (the spider monkey) as the wearers of this costume had somehow to justify using it.

But it’s important to understand that, basically, the “marimonda” costume is a hymn to the male penis as expressed by the “nose” of the costume.

Remember that the carnival was the only opportunity to go back to pagan roots (fertility rites, etc) away from the clutches of the Roman Catholic Church.

Here is a pix of a typical “marimonda” costumes:

Better to have tried and failed than having regrets all your life about what you MIGHT have missed

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