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Just got back from a short (10-day) visit to my Colombian in-laws in Cali. My wife & I managed to sneak out of Cali to spend a few days in Cartagena for a little luna de miel. A good time was had by all and I think I drank enough aguardiente to last me until the next visit.
Cali
Looked a little bit more run-down than when I saw it last year. The MIO (Cali's Transmillenio bus) is making some progress, if at a glacial pace, but the streets, buildings, etc. just looked more and more dilapidated. At least the Mayor is happy as he and his cronies continue to line their pockets.
Nevertheless, we managed to dancing and shopping and did some sightseeing from the Christo Rey monument (that's quite a vista!)
Cartegena
Well, don't arrive in Cartagena on a Monday because that's trash day. We spent Monday night wandering through the trash-lined streets of the old city. Interesting, from an archeological perspective, but something short of pleasant. Tuesday was cloudy and rainy but the trash had been collected and we managed to get some beachcombing in before it rained. Wednesday was sunny but the beach was covered by 10-15' waves so the beach was best viewed from a safe distance.
Overall, it was a nice place and very interesting, historically, but the resturants are definitely geared for the euro-tourists (i.e. expensive). We managed to get a taxi driver to drop us off at a resturant where the locals ate and had a complete lunch for two for the price of one drink at a more tourist-oriented locale.
Copa Airlines
On the balance, the service by Copa/Continental was pretty good. We had a weather delay in Panama due to a thunderstorm going down. Coming back our plane was an hour and a half late leaving Cali due to an engine problem (better to find that out on the ground than in the air, IMO) which caused us to miss our connecting flight to IAH (Houston). Copa put us and half of our checked bags on a flight to MIA that left about 10 minutes after our flight from Cali arrived. Our dealing with the MIA luggage in MIA caused us to miss the next flight to IAH so we waited three more hours for the following one.
Finally got back to the 17-degree (F) temps and snow that was waiting for us in Seattle (brrrr). A big change from the 27-degree (C) weather in Cali. The next two days were spent on the phone with Copa looking for our missing luggage. To their credit, the agent helped as best they could and called to let us know what they still didn't know. It was a bit frustrating that they didn't seem to know much and couldn't find our missing luggage anywhere in the system. (Hmmmm....)
Anyway, last night at midnight, the missing bags materialized magically at our front door so all's well that ends well. The agent at Copa was as surprised as we were.
So ends another South American travel adventure.
By Crazy4Cali on Dec 1, 2006, 12:24 in Friendly Talkzone.
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Peter (Moderator) (Dev team) says on Dec 1, 2006, 17:00: Thanks, great story! Poor but snappy 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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aztec says on Dec 3, 2006, 04:43: I don't remember... ...seeing streets in Cali like the last one pictured. Even the poor sections were better taken care of when I was there last. One doesn't have to be rich to remove the rubbish.
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goin_south says on Dec 3, 2006, 04:51: I remember seeing a vast part of Cali, like these... and, it wasn't because they were 'under construction'.
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 3, 2006, 05:02: I don't see the point publishing pictures like that. We all know that there are slums in every city in Colombia and everywhere in the world (well, almost everyehere, except here). A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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aztec says on Dec 3, 2006, 05:42: Desideria you are... ...correct about publishing the pictures on this site. The better course of action would be to send them to the mayor. Perhaps the thought of the whole world seeing them would motivate someone in his administration to be proactive in eliminating the problem.
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 3, 2006, 05:52: aztec, there's a problem with sending those pictures to the mayor of Cali. He's blind. A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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fugdis says on Dec 3, 2006, 06:47: nice Nice pics Arthur.That should keep everybody away.
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Crazy4Cali says on Dec 3, 2006, 10:50: El alcalde ciego No lie, the Mayor of Cali is blind. Of course that hasn't stopped him from robbing the city blind.
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bufalo says on Dec 3, 2006, 11:19: I forgot about him being blind, glad to hear you had a good time. "If you don't like it - lump it, take it down the road and dump it." - Archie Bunker played by Carroll O'Connor Avianca sucks major. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 3, 2006, 11:42: slum tourism Elmo,i asked a Taxi driver to take me around there but he looked at me in disbelief and said "no me meto por alli! me bajan!"aztec,its no joke,the Mayor is blind as a Bat.Desi,am i only allowed to publish the pretty pictures of Cali?and whats wrong with looking for a "Third-World" Woman?it sure beats looking for a Gringa....anyday! http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 3, 2006, 12:03: nothing wrong, arthur I was just explaining why I don't go to the olla de Cali. Isn't that where the pics were taken? or in Aguablanca? I don't even recognize the place. I don't care where you guys go to find your chicas, but if I were a guy I'd think twice before getting in a bar or whatever in one of those neighbourhoods. Especially if I were a gringo. Especially if I were alone. A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 3, 2006, 12:31: Desi in case you already have forgotten iam in the tourism buisness.so its not to my advantage to stop Gringos from comming here to Cali.neverless,i wouldnt mind being the big frog in the little pond....jijiji http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 3, 2006, 12:53: You had me fooled there, Arthur so, you published these two photos of the worst part of the olla de Cali hoping to attract more tourists to that city? Perhaps you have some nice rentals in that area? A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Cerealkiller says on Dec 3, 2006, 13:01: Im with Desi, These are the worse pics of Cali Ive ever seen. I have never been to a place like that other than to volunteer...and I have been to Cali many times. Id say many Caleños dont even know that place. Conservatives are not necessarily stupid, but most stupid people are conservatives -John Stuart Mill 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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utopiacowboy says on Dec 3, 2006, 13:02: Maldito, Elmo, that was hilarious. I think some of your recent posts have been the funniest you ever wrote. Disclaimer: any comment I make is inane and is not to be taken seriously, and is so patently ridiculous that no one should take it seriously, even as an insult. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 3, 2006, 13:22: Desi in that sector i have available 1br.apts.overlooking"La Olla" for 100,000 pesos per month.sorry ladies,next time i will stick with the pretty pictures.i see there is no interest on PBH of the other side of Cali. http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 3, 2006, 14:21: all these pics.were taken in "El Centro" within walkin distance from the Bank District(Plaza Caizedo) http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 3, 2006, 15:02: i was just thinking,if we had a female moderator this thread would have been deleted a long time ago. http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Cerealkiller says on Dec 3, 2006, 15:21: Arthur if you have the pics clearly its because the place exists and there is no point in denying the obvious. However, saying that you want to show "the other side of cali" implies Cali has more than one side, why cant you just give a more objective account of what Cali is and show us cali's multiple sides? Conservatives are not necessarily stupid, but most stupid people are conservatives -John Stuart Mill 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 3, 2006, 16:10: Cerealkiller If you do a search on this site you will find plenty of positive post/pics. of Cali by me.Thats what gets me,Desi never gives me any credit for them.But when i post one negative view of Cali,Desi becomes all unglued. http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Gomezman5 says on Dec 3, 2006, 17:10: Cali.... It's been talked about quite a bit around here that Cali's general appearance has declined noticibly over the past few years. I will admit, I don't know because I have not been there since 2004. However, others here have commented including some time back, Desi herself. Even Rolos that regulularly visit Cali have told me that they think that while most people agree that Bogota is looking better than anytime in recent memory, they also feel it is happening at the expense of not making needed repairs and capital investments in Cali. This is not me talking. This is coming from both calenos and rolos (including my family) that live in Colombia. Similar comments have been echoed here.
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Crazy4Cali says on Dec 3, 2006, 17:49: RE: Cali v. Bogota The general consensus I heard in Cali was that Uribe has been actively neglecting Cali in defernce to Medellin and Bogota. On top of that, the mayor robbing the coffers so it doesn't paint a very pretty picture (as Arthur's photography would indicate).
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 4, 2006, 01:29: i was just thinking,if we had a female moderator this thread !Arthur Brode). A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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MacGringo says on Dec 4, 2006, 05:07: Sure that wasn't taken in Beirut Arthur?...haha
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juancegomez says on Dec 4, 2006, 07:27: On Cali vs. Bogota/Medellin Bogotá and Medellín may be comparatively favored by the government, I suppose, but keep in mind that those two cities have also had a string of local administrations that, from the looks of things, have been much more responsible and capable than Cali's, especially right now.
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 5, 2006, 01:35: i was told that Uribe didnt do too good in Cali as far as votes are concerned.maybey that has something to do with the neglect. http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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juancegomez says on Dec 5, 2006, 06:02: arthur brode Doubtful.
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litost says on Dec 5, 2006, 06:45: Blaming in some way Uribe for Cali's troubles is ridiculous. The city's problems started several years before him coming to office, and the roots of the situation go even farther back. If anything, the local and regional authorities have much more blame to take (on the opposite ideological spectrum as Uribe btw), and well in the end who are the people who elect those people into office... hmm?
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 5, 2006, 09:26: Yes, it's true that the problems with Cali started way back with the artificially inflated bubble with the cartel and building boom that collapsed as soon as the cartel became history; three or four lousy periods of administration (starting with Mauricio Guzman "oh yeah he stole the money but at least he built the puentes", inept Jhon Jairo and the present blind guy Polo.) A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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billyb says on Dec 5, 2006, 09:37: On the bright side, Our "beloved" blind mayor... has been removed from office as of yesterday for corruption. Of course he still has a chance to appeal. Let's hope Cali finally gets some good leadership, such as the ones that have done so much good for Bogota', Medellin and Pereira. "All I want to know is where I'm going to die, so I never go there" Unkown (at least to me) wise man. 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 5, 2006, 09:51: Right, billy, I was just reading about his destitution. Maybe the crisis in Cali has touched the rock bottom and there is only one way to go...up. A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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www.calirentals.net says on Dec 5, 2006, 10:58: juan thanks for the election results.obviously,i was misinformed by a secretary friend of mine that works in the "Cam" out of all places. http://www.calirentals.net/ 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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litost says on Dec 5, 2006, 11:59: Desi, as much as I respect you and value your opinion, you often let your emotional love of Cali get the best of you. It is not a President's responsibility to ensure the development and economic performance of every single city in a country. It is an impossible task, even for a workaholic micromanager like Uribe, that's why there are governors and mayors with a very high level of administrative and financial autonomy. A president of a country as complicated on so many fronts as in Colombia has to look after the unity and overall well-being of the country as a whole. If one city is going downhill while the the rest of the country has been on the upside for several years already, I'd say take a cold and objective look at what's going on there. Finding a scapegoat and revisiting old regional rivalries is the easiest thing to do, but gets you nowhere close to the solution.
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gringolondinense says on Dec 6, 2006, 09:42: I cant believe this crap!! Arthur is just posting a few pics that happen to show the not-so-nice bits of town. So what? He doesnt have to balance his photos with some upmarket places. What if he posted pics only of the good parts of town? maybe people would moan and say "thet's see the crap bits also arthur".
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Desideria (Moderator) says on Dec 7, 2006, 03:09: From today's El Pais; A fronte praecipitium a tergo lupi 0 funny, 0 helpful. |
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aztec says on Dec 7, 2006, 04:30: What a shame... ...Desi. I was first in Cali about 17 years ago. I thought it was a beautiful place. My brother in law put us up for a week in the hotel at the country club. One of the most pleasant visits I have ever had to Colombia. Managed to visit some cities not too far from Cali during this time.
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timeout says on Dec 7, 2006, 22:58: I live in the most beautiful city in the world, according to most, Vancouver. If you were to take the 2nd of arthur's photos and: pave the road, add puddles of urine, feces, vomit, and used needles, then scatter about 50 heroine addicts along the alley, and finally make the buildings bigger and scarier, you'd have an accurate picture of many back streets in downtown Vancouver, only a couple blocks from gastown, a major tourist atttraction here.
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More posts by the same author:
Man, what a clueless gringo I am 4
We got to meet the Colombian Army 8
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